<?xml version='1.0' encoding='iso-8859-1'?>
<feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:slash='http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/' xml:base='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com'>
  <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/forum.pl</id>
  <link rel='self' href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/static/attach/xml/board10.atom10.xml'/>
  <link rel='alternate' href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/forum.pl'/>
  <title>DBA Forum - Dune Buggy Build Advice</title>
  <subtitle>Latest forum posts</subtitle>
  <updated>2012-02-03T00:20:01Z</updated>
  <generator version='2.10.2' uri='http://www.mwforum.org/'>mwForum</generator>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24489</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24489'/>
    <title>6V to 12V starter conversion?</title>
    <author><name>Nick R 2948</name></author>
    <published>2012-02-03T00:19:33Z</published>
    <updated>2012-02-03T00:19:33Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Thanks for the advice, the flywheel teeth were counted by the previous owner and he told me it had 109 teeth so it must be a 6V system.&#160; The bendix still worked on the old starter but the motor just dragged and got hot.&#160; My old bus worked great with the 6V bendix and motor with a 12Volt system.&#160; I am going to keep the 6V starter but I will look for a 12V bendix.&#160; thanks for the replies and the advice.&#160; This is a great VW dune buggy site!!!&#160; you guys rock!]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24487</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24487'/>
    <title>6V to 12V starter conversion?</title>
    <author><name>Rick M 333</name></author>
    <published>2012-02-02T14:13:56Z</published>
    <updated>2012-02-02T14:13:56Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[If it had the 6v starter, it has the 6v ring gear too. You can&#39;t put a 12v starter on a 6v ring gear - the 6v ring gear is wider. Get another 6v starter and change the solenoid to 12v, that way you won&#39;t burn it out... which may be the reason your current starter isn&#39;t working.]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24483</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24483'/>
    <title>6V to 12V starter conversion?</title>
    <author><name>Joseph  S 2595</name></author>
    <published>2012-02-02T05:02:21Z</published>
    <updated>2012-02-02T05:02:21Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Any idea if the flywheel was changed back to a 6volt one?&#160; The reason I ask is that there is a difference in tooth count between a 6volt and 12 volt flywheels.&#160; <br/>6volt&#160;&#160; 109 teeth<br/>12volt 130 teeth <br/>If it already has a 6volt flywheel easiest way to fix is to replace starter.&#160;&#160; <br/>Converting to a 12volt flywheel and starter requires resetting crankshaft endplay and machining out bell housing and using a starter bushing adapter.<br/>1967 was the first year VW used 12volt system here in the US. ]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24469</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24469'/>
    <title>6V to 12V starter conversion?</title>
    <author><name>Nick R 2948</name></author>
    <published>2012-02-01T17:05:38Z</published>
    <updated>2012-02-01T17:05:38Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[When I was in college I had a 1965 VW bus that I converted to 12V only I left the 6V starter in it.&#160; It worked great and would start the motor up so fast that all I had to do was bump the starter switch.&#160; I used it like that for 3 years and sold it that way.&#160; Fast forward 30+ years, I bought a VW dune buggy in September, took it all a part and now I&#39;m putting it back together.&#160; It has a 1967 1500 engine on a 1963 bus transaxle.&#160; It was converted to a 12V system but it has a 6V starter in it.&#160; The starter is bad.&#160; Should I just get a rebuilt 6V starter or should I convert to a 12V starter?&#160; I&#39;d like to hear opinions on this.&#160; My personal opinion is to keep the 6V starter so I don&#39;t need to change bushings.&#160; I just put a new bushing in it.&#160; Has anyone had a 6V starter on a 12V system for longer than 3 years?]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24448</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24448'/>
    <title>rear axle seal</title>
    <author><name>Sandsurfer</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-29T14:04:07Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-29T14:04:07Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Swing axle cars have seals that install from the inside, some IRS can be installed from the outside of the flange.<br/>Before reinstalling the flange always make sure the gasket surface of the flange is flat. <br/>Be aware that there are flanges that are different depths, they are not all the same.]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24409</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24409'/>
    <title>Bump stop repair procedure</title>
    <author><name>Thomas B 2944</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-26T01:27:12Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-26T01:27:12Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>82</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Hi All.<br/>&#160; &#160;&#160; Thought that it would be nice to answer the original post on how or what I did to fix the &quot;Bump Stops&quot;. If you will recall I had just touched the rubber bump stops making them break off. They had rotted off over the years. I know, some builds just cut them off anyway but I like to keep things original, or at least as much as possible. So here is my solution to the problem based on all the reading I did, thanks all those on the DBA and the Samba. I have to give credit due where it is due. I have just added my twists, thoughts and deviations.<br/>&#160; &#160;&#160; You will need the following items for each stud needed:<br/>&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; 1- 3/8 x 2 inch carriage bolt<br/>&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; 4- 3/8 flat washers<br/>&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; 2- 3/8 hex nut<br/>&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; 1- 3/8 Fender washer (optional)<br/>&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; 1- 3/8 split lock washer<br/> <br/>&#160; &#160;&#160; The stud assembly is constructed around a 3/8 x 2 inch carriage bolt. Using a file, or for those that happen to have a lathe, remove the corners on the square under the head of the carriage bolt until the 4- 3/8 flat washers will fit against the head of the carriage bolt. Using one of the 3/8 hex nuts, screw it onto the carriage bolt and tighten it against the washers. The nut acts as the spacer that is required to hold the lip off the mount on the trailing arm. I brazed the nut in place to make it a more solid assembly but you most likely will not need to do that.<br/>&#160; &#160;&#160; When it comes time to attach them to the trailing arms I will grind off what left of the original mount and drill a 3/8 inch hole. I have a 3/8 fender washer that I plan to use between the trailing arm mount and the bump stop but it may not be necessary. I will place the bump stop stud through the hole in the training arm and attach it with a flat washer, lock washer and nut in that order. Here is a picture of an assembled bump stop and one broken down into its component parts. Fairly basic but it at least answers the original post. Hope it works when I attach it to the training arms.<br/><br/>Tom]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24381</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24381'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>andrew s 1965</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-23T02:18:17Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-23T02:18:17Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Ok this explains all the silicon on the cap. Last person just must have just gooped it up and called it done. I will have to hunt down a clip<br/>Thanks]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24380</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24380'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>Tom & Kathleen I 639</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-23T02:08:43Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-23T02:08:43Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Yes, the drivers side spindle should be hollow.&#160; The cable will go through, you may have to push hard.&#160; The dust cap should have a square hole in it for the square end of the cable to pass through.&#160; It is easier to line up the end of the cable if the dust cap is off, and then tap it fully back in place after is it fully clipped.&#160; There could either be a cotter pin or &quot;C&quot; clip to hold it to the dust cap.&#160; Tom]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24379</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24379'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>andrew s 1965</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-23T02:01:54Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-23T02:01:54Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Tom and Jeffery <br/>So it is hollow and I push all the way from inside, through the wheel bearing, to the lock nut and fasten there with a clip?<br/>Right now I have no clip, other one will pull out so I have nothing to see how it was done and of course I never owned a buggy or did this on a vw before so something simple like this takes me a few.<br/>Rather ask than mess something up<br/>Thanks]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24376</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24376'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>Jeffrey P 655</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-23T01:02:25Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-23T01:02:25Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Some just use a little clip that hold them in. I like to drill the end out for a small cotter pin. Those darn clips ar a pain on my chubby old fingers.]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24375</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24375'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>andrew s 1965</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-22T21:26:37Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-22T21:26:37Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[that is not what i expected to hear.....<br/>thought it would be a little more simple than this!!!<br/>old one jus pilled out and not sure where the pin would have been<br/>directions and chilton book do not go into much detail.<br/>i kind of knew itr would be difficult<br/>Thanks&#39;<br/>andy]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24374</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24374'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>Tom & Kathleen I 639</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-22T18:03:33Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-22T18:03:33Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[You have to take the wheel off, get the cable through the dust cap (maybe easier with the dust cap off to lineup the square end), and put in the cotter pin.&#160; Then you have to calibrate it with a measued mile.&#160; Tom]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24372</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24372'/>
    <title>speedometer cable</title>
    <author><name>andrew s 1965</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-22T15:41:43Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-22T15:41:43Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[I bought a new vdo electric speedo and cable for the electric speedo. I am taking the old one out and i read up and stuff which did not help much.<br/>goes into left front tire<br/>do i just pull old one out and stick new one in?<br/>making sure it is far as it can go and the the rubber seal is good?<br/>is it this simple?]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24367</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24367'/>
    <title>Bump stop repair procedure</title>
    <author><name>Kellison Jim</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-22T15:26:20Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-22T15:26:20Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>82</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[Here we go.... Just send them a PM with your request. Not 100% sure they can do it, but it&#39;s worth a try.<br/><br/>Paul Moran<br/><a class='url' href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/user_info.pl?uid=1'>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/user_info.pl?uid=1</a><br/><br/>Jay Hart<br/><a class='url' href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/user_info.pl?uid=387'>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/user_info.pl?uid=387</a><br/><br/>John Shepard<br/> <a class='url' href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=1377'>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=1377</a>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24363</id>
    <link href='http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/topic_show.pl?pid=24363'/>
    <title>Bump stop repair procedure</title>
    <author><name>Thomas B 2944</name></author>
    <published>2012-01-22T12:11:42Z</published>
    <updated>2012-01-22T12:11:42Z</updated>
    <category term='Dune Buggy Build Advice'/>
    <slash:comments>82</slash:comments>
    <content type='html'>
      <![CDATA[So, How do you get in touch with them? Or do they monitor? They can just move it. To bad that I could not change the name at this point. Maybe, &#39;THE MAINE BUGGY BUILD would be a good name for what the build has become? <br/><br/>Tom]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
</feed>

