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Previous Next Up Topic Engines / Subbug - Subaru Power / Cleaning up clutter (28130 hits)
By Terry F Date 2007-05-10 02:48
I've started stripping my 2.2 and there seems to be a lot of tubes that I won't be using that need to come off. I'm wondering if anyone has a guide/instructions/pics on how to make a "clean" intake. I was looking at Jeff's pic's about the PCV system, but my motor doesn't appear to have a "F" connector.

I was looking at the photos posted by estreme1 but my motor doesn't look like that one, who else here has a 2.2?

Can someone post links to help me id the unnecessary stuff?

Thanks,
Terry
By charliew Date 2007-05-10 15:20 Edited 2007-05-11 05:51
I read the very informative stuff about thermostat sensing and keeping the heater circuit. My 02 wrx uses a oil  filter water cooler. I wonder if I can just use this circut to give the thermostat its feedback? it sure would clean all the small water hoses up. About the PCV and breather stuff, I think I'll connect the valve covers to the crankcase and then to a vw style breather box and maybe drain to the pan and a one way valve to the intake in front of the turbo with a  watts compressor style breather. Then comes the tricky part, I have ordered a custom made Watts compressor style filter with a larger resevoir to filter the vaccum side of the PCV and am wondering if I also have this going to the valve covers if it won't just create a path that just circulates through the breather and PCV rather than purge the motor? My son, who has a sti says that under boost the air intake before the turbo is under slightly lower pressure or vaccum and that is one source for the PCV but you will need another one way valve in this circuit. I may use the circuit in this picture someone has kindly drawn and add the one way valves and filters. http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics.cgi/turbo_pcv.png Except put the watts filter in between the PCV and intake. I may have gotten it from the scooby mods forum, they also have a pretty in depth write up and explanation of the factory pcv stuff. I haven't actually done this yet. I'm still trying to get the bottom stuff completed, pan, headers and oil filter. the top side will probably take more time but maybe less fabbing. cw
By Terry F Date 2007-05-10 16:45
Thanks for posting the PCV pic,  I have saved it to my "Subaru" folder. I'd seen that somewhere before but didn't save it or bookmark it (lesson learned). The 2.2 has two vents per valve cover which seems like over kill to me, but I bought the motor already pulled from the car and a lot of hoses were cut which is going to make it difficult to figure out what went where. When you say "one way valve" is that a standard check valve for compressed air or an automotive style?
Thanks also for the tip on the scoobymods.com, I will check them out before posting here again, they may have the answers to my questions on the water plumbing.

Terry
By charliew Date 2007-05-11 06:03
Terry, my son the sti guy says the correct way to do the one way valves would be to measure the pressure and pick the correct size valve. he thinks I might find them in the Mc master carr catalog. I think I will let him help me on this cause I will probably guess at what I need and probably end up with several extra wrong ones. In the picture one of the valve cover hoses goes to the crankcase and then to the other valve cover. I think this is to maybe equalize the pressure in the motor. Thats just a guess. I know on my small block chev. ramjet when I run it wide open for a little while it seems to have too much crankcase pressure and weeps at some of the gaskets. I hope the subie doesn't do this. It will be turning quite a few more rpm's than the chev. so I'm going to try to make a good breather pcv system.
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-11 11:44
Guys, here's the other link for the N/A PCV system:
http://glasairproject.com/soobdocs/EG(H4)PCV.gif

It's a bit different from the turbo layout.  On my engine - the F fitting is nothing special, other than it connects a couple of different size hoses, but otherwise it's fully open inside.  On my engine, I carefully studied the original layout and tubing, comparing that to the factory turbo diagram.  The pathways were the same, but the physical layout was a bit different that the diagram - that is "connections" between tubes were is different locations that what the diagram showed - sort of like how an electrical diagram might look significantly different than the physical wiring - especially where "common" points are connected.  But bottom line was - the true gas flow followed the factory diagram exactly.
There is one restriction in the system that I duplicated in my PCV system "re-plumb".  It is where the the two valve covers are connected together, Tee off then go into the F fitting.  At the F fitting end - there is a reducing orifice I inserted inside the tubing - this matches a similar orifice in the OEM piping.  It seems to "bias" gas flow so that the PCV valve mosly draws from the big crankcase vent, and caused the fresh air to flow into the valve covers from another T fitting installed in the valve cover crossover path.  That seems to be the flow path during N/A operation, but during boost it changes and appears to folw somewhat opposite - that the valve covers and crankcase vent all appear to be venting "outlets".  The draw point during boost is the turbo inlet - as stated above, so all the engine orifices "vent" and that pressure is drawn into the turbo inlet - the same location that acts as the fresh air inlet during normally aspirated operation.

I agree though - a lot of plumbing that's not very attractive for an exposed engine, but I think it's necessary to properly vent and "clean" the engine inside during operation.  Just getting rid of the original fuel and vacuum lines helps to clean it up some, and tucking most of the PCV system under the intake helps more.

Jeff
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-11 12:03
CW - meant to reply about the thermostat circuit.  I think keeping the oil cooler and car heater circuits are a good idea.  The heater can be a simple "loop" tube between inlet and outlet at the heater pipes off the engine.  Having both circiuts flowing all the time should certainly be enough to get the thermostat working - plus allows easier fitting of a car heater down the line (not to mention figuring out how to block off the heater outlets at the intake and down by the water pump)!  The other small hoses heat the throttle body and IAC (idle) valve - to keep them from icing in damp cool weather.  I guess in So Cal worrying about icing isn't too big a deal as all the sand cars do away with this stuff - making the engines look Much cleaner!
But here in Maryland -  I'm keeping the throttle body heater!  My aftermarket IAC valve isn't water heated, but it is remotely located and will be down on the engine block to help keep it from icing (hopefully).

Cheers,
Jeff
By Terry F Date 2007-05-11 23:12 Edited 2007-05-12 02:23
Update, I've mounted the motor to my engine stand and started stripping everything off, I have a better understanding of what I need to keep after removing the intake manifold. I'm using my label maker to label each hose and harness connection as it's removed. There is one small hose that I cannot figure out yet, it runs from a small switch mounted under and to the intake. The other side of the switch has the same small size hose and it goes to the throttle body. As I said before, the motor was already pulled when I bought it and the guy just hacked and slashed the wiring and hoses.

Outback sells a modified throttle body, but I'm like Jeff, I want to keep the cold weather ability there, is the big valve right next to the throttle body the IAC valve? It has a three prong connector plugged in to the harness.

One a good note, I ordered my header, tail pipe, inlet flange, air filter, j-tube, connecting hoses, and gaskets today!
I spent the extra $ and ordered the jetcoating and chrome, I figure it will last longer and bling is nice...

Terry
By Terry F Date 2007-05-15 01:20 Edited 2007-05-16 06:46
My education continues, meaning that I'm learning what goes where, and what seems to be unnecessary. I've come up with two questions though.

1) It looks like the heater plumbing circuit would be perfect for using as the turbo cooling. Is there a reason I shouldn't do that? The only thing I can think of is if the area of the cylinder head where the normal turbo cooling water returns needs the benefit of that flow. Will rerouting the return cause a problem?

2) I haven't a clue as to what this switch does, can any of you help with it's identity, and or purpose?


Thanks, Terry
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-15 11:34
Terry,
Not sure about that switch?  Don't have one on my 2.0 turbo motor, but that's definitely the IAC valve next to the throttle body.
Where do the hoses go from/to the switch?  That could be a clue?  It looks like it may be some kind of air bypass valve?  Or maybe something to do with air flow through the tubing during certain periods of engine operation (like during or after warm-up, or when the A/C comes on???).  The IAC valve should take care of those duties but???  You might try putting 12V through the switch and see if it opens an internal valve by blowing through the tubing.

For the turbo - I'd look for a water feed that comes off cooler water flow, but after the pump.  Something like the oil cooler feed would be good - but complicated getting that up to a turbo.  My turbo motor has a built-in feed coming off the cylinder head, though I think Outback recommends coming off the crossover manifold above the engine (and it's pre-heated water)  - the same location as the water heater supply line - for easier relocation of the turbo to the opposite end of the engine than stock.  There is no water return for the turbo at the engine.  Per the OEM diagram - I'm running my turbo hot water discharge directly back into the water fill tank (a remote Canton tank in my case).  I'm also tying in the discharge water line from the throttle body into this turbo return line.  I believe this routing avoids air pockets in the system? - where plumbing the return back into the heater return piping may not??  Air in the system will try to travel up - so ideally the water path from engine to turbo to wherever it feeds back int onto the water system should be a continual upwards path - to help self-purge air out of the coolant path (IMHO that is!).  I'm thinking of installing a purge valve at the crossover/radiator return hose fitting, and another on the top of the radiator.

Jeff
By charliew Date 2007-05-15 14:13
Hi Terry, Charley or CW as I sometimes use here. That valve could be the purge control solenoid valve which is in a similiar place on my wrx motor. There's a schematic of emission control but it really has everything about hoses. you need to get one for your particular motor or use outbacks recommendations and simplify it all. scooby mods has lots of stuff also. I'm trying to use the stock ecu and a utec delta so I will use most of the stock stuff but I do think taking all the unnessary stuff off will make it look so much better. Outback even said for me to remove the oil filter cooler to clean it up they don't think hot oil is a problem. I think for now I'll keep it. Have fun, I think I enjoy building as much as driving. CW
By Terry F Date 2007-05-15 19:35
Jeff/CW
I agree that it must have something to do with emissions, one hose out of that switch runs up to the throttle body and the other was a short loop connecting to a small hard line that terminated along side another hard line heading for the passenger side headlight. There must of been a canister up there. Since that line must be pressurized under boost, would I need to drill and tap the throttle body for a plug? Or would a clamped rubber cap be fine for the stock boost pressures?
Here's a pic, the line has circles at the ends:


As for the turbo cooling, my 2.2 does have a dedicated water drain, as you can see in this pic the supply is marked by the small circle and the return/drain has the large circle. Just to the left (pic wise) of the turbo supply you'll seethe heater core supply and return. The heater core supply shares the same source as the turbo supply, that's why I though I might use the heater circuit as it would be shorter/neater than running back over the the original drain. I think it will be clearer if I can do that after the exhaust header arrives and I see how things line up.


Last questions (for now  :D ),  here's a pic of the turbo, do I connect the small line on the turbo to the waste gate diaphram? (both circled):
Also, I think I can use the OEM water banjos if I separate the two and turn the lower one (longer) around to point the same direction as the shorter supply, they both will be pointing towards the motor.


Thanks for the help!!!
Terry
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-16 12:37
You sure about those water connections at the motor Terry?  The two tubes - the small circled one and one just to the left of it are the heater connections on my engine - and were identical in shape and appearance as the ones on your engine.  The small circled tube (at least on my engine) ran down to the inlet side of the water pump - so it would be a return connection.  The shorter tube coming out of the water crossover on the top of the motor is a supply - with hot (pressurized) water coming off the top of the engine on it's way back to the radiator.  At least I'm pretty sure that's what the flow direction is!  If I remember correctly - water comes in at the pump on the bottom of the engine - then moves up through the engine block and heads, then out the crossover manifold on top.  The bypass connections connect directly between the crossover manifold on top (or other supply connection) and back into the inlet side of the pump - above the thermostat, bypassing it as well.
My turbo water supply is in the general location of the large circled tube in your pic (near the bottom of the engine).

Probably any suitable supply water connection coming off the engine in a good location will work for the turbo.  Modifying the banjo connections at the turbo should work OK?  I believe the interconnection between the banjos may help with keeping vibration from turning the connections and loosening the banjo bolts?  I'd keep an eye on them and consider fitting a replacement brace to serve the same function if necessary.  I had a tough time sourcing the right hose size for those banjo connections - but think I eventually found one that would work? - in an older post.

I also think you're right about the mystery switch - likely something to do with the fuel vapor charcoal cannister purge system.

Jeff
By Terry F Date 2007-05-17 01:28 Edited 2007-05-17 02:09
Now that I have looked at the plumbing more, I see what you mean about the flow direction, the tube with the small circle does go down to the water pump housing and it would seem to be an inlet. Not having any type of manual yet to look at diagrams leaves me guessing/assuming, and that's counter-productive sometimes. Next time I'll buy a motor IN the car, guessing at all the direction/purpose of cutoff hoses ain't fun.

So if your correct, the hose with the large circle would be the supply for the turbo. I studied your Feb. post on your AN plumbing for your turbo and I see how neat the AN fittings are, but you didn't name a source for the Earl's adapter, did you get them locally or order them?
(edit: found supplier online)

CW actually came up with the purge valve idea first, it just took me a while to find a diagram that made the light come on in my head.

Continued to clean up and ID the hard lines that I can remove. It looks like my next order to Outback will include the modified water crossover.

While I'm thinking of it, what's the consensus on using a blowoff valve? Outback said I didn't need one with the OEM turbo but I was reading about turbo chirp last night and it has me wondering.

Bought a used laptop on ebay, received it today. Our laptop was too new to have a serial port, usb only, picked up a Dell Lattitude C600, it has the serial port I will need for the software.
Paul, if your lurking, could you take a look at the EMS Stinger software
(link http://www.ptrsds.com/ems_stinger_4424.htm, you can download at the bottom of the page) and give an evaluation please? I've decided to go with the Stinger, I can get the v.4 version for $855 from this guy.
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-17 11:04
Terry,

I get most of my generic auto parts (including the Earls fittings) from Summit Racing - on line.  Quick and easy, and shipping free, though they have a stiff handling charge (I wait until I have a large order since the handling charge is the same, regardless of order size).  Got my Earls and Aeroquip fittings there.  I also get some AN plumbing stuff from Racer Parts Wholesale:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/index.html
Planning on getting a Mocal oil thermostat and cooler from RPW, once I get to actually fitting the engine into my Deserter.

Jeff
By charliew Date 2007-05-18 02:33
Terry I seem to get better service and prices from jegs but I still use them both. I got burned when summit was out of stock and kept dragging me along and called jegs and had it in a couple of days a little cheaper, so now I check jegs first. I need to get frendly with the rpw place, that will be new to me but I need an oil thermostat.cw
By Terry F Date 2007-05-17 17:24
Sorry, forgot the link for the Stinger...

EMS Stinger
http://www.ptrsds.com/ems_4424-8860.htm

Terry
By charliew Date 2007-05-18 01:59
Hey guys I've been studying why so many water lines and I think the engineers wanted the first warm water to go to the heater for the passengers, after all these were designed for cold slippery climates I guess. They didn't want to wait for the complete warmup as in using the radiator. I think they plumbed in the turbo out of convenience from the head and then to the resevoir then to the radiator and this was maybe to purge the system cause it was a high point in the system or maybe the turbo needed to be cooled immediately.. Personally in a warm climate I would like the turbo to get radiator cooled water but I haven't studied the possibilitys yet. I'm probably going to delete the throttle body heated lines, if its that cold I'll probably be hunting. I also wonder if the oil filter cooler on the wrx is not really to warm the oil instead of cooling it.It is also is fed off of the head back to the intake side of the pump. You know nascar motors use oil heaters to keep the engines warm before a race.Probably also to keep the expansion on the metals optimum. The best way to crack a piston skirt is to flog a cold engine.Terry I have to know, what is that bellhousing thats bolted to the adapter? Annnnd what is that water line thats fartherest to the left comming around back under the valve cover? I guess I'm through sorry I'm so long winded.cw
By Terry F Date 2007-05-18 03:25 Edited 2007-05-18 03:35
CW
As far as I can tell, that tubing you ask about would be the return for the heater core, it's difficult to say for sure not ever seeing the motor in the car. I have a 2.7 H-6 in a '86 XT-6, I will be taking a lot of pictures and labeling like crazy before I pull that motor I can tell you!

The bellhousing is a vw bus transaxle, most likely a 091 if I remember right. I like it because I can mount the starter to it. I have plans to build a stand using that bellhousing that bolts to my buggy frame jig where I can fire up and run any Subaru or VW motor I happen to be working on. I have a 1915 and a 1776 both of which need assembly. I won't be touching those until the sooby is running. I would sell the VW parts if I could recoup most of the money...

Regarding the turbo cooling, I think you want to maintain the greatest temperature differential for the best heat transfer between fluids, so with the high temperature of the exhaust I can see where you would want the turbo to be last so as not the raise the coolant temperature so high it couldn't properly cool the motor. IMHO of course.

Received my header and tailpipe today, I just had to see how it looked. What do you think? I should receive the j-tube and intake filter tomorrow, I'm hoping there is a angled silicon hose in the kit. The turbo can't be re-clocked to adjust the angle to match the throttle body. I'm also thinking of ordering aluminum pulleys, the adapted flywheel weights a ton and the underdrive aluminum pulley saves about 4 lbs. Still cleaning up the motor, fifteen years of road grime and oil, Bah!
By Terry F Date 2007-05-18 03:42
I was just looking at the pic of my header and  I realized there's no bung for a o2 sensor. Won't I need one? If so it should have been there before jetcoating... Double Bah!
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-18 11:20
I'd definitely install an O2 sensor fitting on your exhaust Terry - but after the turbo.  Just have it fitted into the exhaust pipe a little downstream from the turbo outlet.  On that thought I should be hearing back about the high-flow turbo outlet Zero Tolerance is fabbing up for me.  These should be for sale very soon!
That exhaust system looks good!  Sure wish I could have used an already fabricated  exhaust for my Deserter (being mid-engine, the standard rear engine exhaust won't work).
Cheers,
Jeff
By charliew Date 2007-05-18 02:24 Edited 2007-05-18 02:37
Terry my son is a mechanical engineer and hot rods an sti subie. he says you need a blow off to limit undue pressure on the turbo when the throttle is slammed shut at high boost. as in shifting gears. or any time your going like hell and completely get out of the throttle. most subies don't make a lot of boost below 3500 so only when your going hard do you need a blow off valve. I look at it this way, they wouldn't have put it on if they didn't think it was absolutely necessary in the case of the wrx. I also respect Outbacks opinion but usually they are talking about upgrades that are running higher compression and way less boost. higher compression is a good thing it makes more power before the turbo comes in. 60 foot times will be faster probably. A wrx motor has 8:1 compression and a na motor probably has 9:1. On your application you will have to spend more money for a blow off valve and maybe Outback is right in your case. In my sons application he's gradually tuning toward 22 psi at about 5500rpm it will drop off some after that I think.cw
By Terry F Date 2007-05-19 00:36 Edited 2007-05-19 00:39
Small setback today, I received the J-tube, Inlet Flange, and Air Filter today and quickly found out the original turbo on my 2.2 has a bastard sized compressor. Not only is it smaller, but it's clocked wrong. Plus the inlet on the 2.2 turbo is smaller as well so the inlet flange didn't bolt up, so I talked to John at Outback, and found out there are not many like that, but I guess I'm one of the lucky ones!!! Sooo, I ordered a 2.0 turbo which will work with the parts as designed. John did say I will make 200+ hp, maybe 220 or 230, where I thought I would be at about 160 hp which is what the stock motor made, maybe a little more considering the aftermarket parts and EMS Stinger engine management. I added a blow off valve to the order after talking to John. He said I wouldn't have needed it with the smaller compressor but with the 2.0 turbo I'll be able to run more boost. The good news is I have the pink injectors which according to John are slightly bigger than the 2.0 injectors, so I came out ahead on something...
By @Jeff GS Date 2007-05-19 11:33
Terry,
Bummer about the turbo, but sounds like the new one from Outback will provide the solution.  It just dawned on me - and not sure you knew?  but your 2.2 factory turbo engine has the highly revered closed deck block!  With some better pistons and rods and swapping on a set of WRX DOHC heads (and bigger turbo of course!) it can be built into a Monster engine!   That's the combo that was used in the rare Subaru 22B - one of the baddest a$$ WRX's ever made, basically a full blown rally car in street trim.  Food for thought if you decide you might need some more power down the road....  Those 2.2 turbo blocks and cranks are worth some good $$ among the hot-rod Subaru crowd.   But for a simple turbo swap, 220 doesn't sound too bad either!!

I've read the JDM engines that have the ribbed valve covers (like my 2.0 turbo engine) have a good possibility of having the closed deck block too?  Something I'll be wondering about as I'm cranking up the boost!  :-)
Jeff
By Paul Moran (DBA Architect) Date 2007-05-21 22:42
I'm way behind on this thread....  I feed coolant from after the radiator into the turbo. It then dumps back into the overflow tank which gets drawn into one of the fittings after the thermostat right at the pump (if I remember correctly).

I wanted to pull in the coolest coolant possible and I can't imagine the turbo being able to transfer enough heat to the coolant to cause the engine to notice at all.  Having my turbo sitting out in the open, I think it stays "cold" to start with as opposed to being cramped in an engine compartment. 

Considering that some turbos do not even have coolant lines, I would not worry about the source too much - as long as it stays below the engine temp, I'd think it will be happy.  Turbos normally run way hotter than an engine considering what they are doing. 

Paul...
Chicago, IL
EMPI Imp 1002 ('69)/Subaru EJ20 Turbo/LinkPlus ECU
By charliew Date 2007-05-23 17:30
Paul I like the idea of directly cooling the turbo from the radiator and thats what i'll try.

Charlie
By charliew Date 2007-05-23 17:28
Terry sorry to be late on this but I forgot to say that on my 02 wrx there is a tee in the line on the turbo vaccum hoses and I think it goes to a boost control solenoid thats mounted on the fender well, its electrically controlled to pulse or modulate to control boost I think. Also I don't know about putting a o2 sensor on your short exhaust pipe. it maybe too close to outside to work. I would have wanted an egt sensor also on number 3 to monitor exhaust temps on tuning to go with the o2 sensor. You migh be able to tap the turbo housing for a o2, its just an after thought. o2s usually go after the turbo but I'm putting mine before the turbo, I think it will get more accurate gases to monitor. Also its more trouble to tap and plug something but you won't be chasing a leak in a year or two if the rubber plug splits or comes off.
By Paul Moran (DBA Architect) Date 2007-06-01 05:31
Hey Charlie - The LC-1 docs that I have for the wide band O2 suggest putting the O2 after the turbo so the heat doesn't cook the O2 sensor.  If its placed before the turbo, they recommend a heat sink (either a machined one or a sheet of copper) to dissipate the heat.

Mine's before the turbo (a little miscommunication on my part) and when I put the wide band o2 back on this past weekend, the LC-1 read a "heater circuit open" error.  I have not found an explanation for it yet...

The LC-1 docs also give a measurement I think for how far from the end of the exhaust the O2 should be.  I want to guess it was around 6 inches.  The dyno O2 sensors only go a couple inches into the exhaust if I remember correctly.

What rubber plug are you talking about?

Paul...
Chicago, IL
EMPI Imp 1002 ('69)/Subaru EJ20 Turbo/LinkPlus ECU
By charliew Date 2007-06-03 21:50
Terry was talking about plugging some intake nipples that won't be used with rubber plugs. The ones I won't be using will get plugged buy tapping and using a plug or heli-arced. I don't want a unexpected leak that might be in a tough place to fix after the manifold is back on. On the o2 bung, I thought I read somewhere that it needed to be 16 inches from the exhaust port. It is in the collector where the four tubes merge on the header i modified to use on my motor which is also about 14 inches before to turbo. I think thats also where it is on the new perrin header on my sons sti. Those header tubes are probably a lot longer than the outback header. They will most definately need to be wrapped to keep some of the heat. I hope your heater circuit open error is just a loose connection. You might need to ohm out the o2 heater wire side of the sensor to make sure its ok.

Charlie
By Terry F Date 2007-06-04 05:37 Edited 2007-06-04 05:45
Change of plans, I figured out that slip on plugs may not do when under boost so I will tap and plug also if necessary. It appears I may have only one port to plug. So far I have one small (3mm) vent tube for the fuel pressure regulator, another 3mm for my boost gauge, one 4mm for the BOV, one larger (1/4"?) vent tube that may be plugged, and a small 3mm vent on the top of the throttle body. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the map sensor tee into the line between the turbo compressor and the waste gate valve?

One thing I don't know yet is where the small port on the top of the throttle body used to go, maybe it was part of the emissions circuit. I had ordered a "modified" throttle body from Outback and they had cut that vent tube right off and it was still open, that can't be right can it? I'm sending it back anyway, the polish job was terrible, a real hack job and I told them so. They are sending me another one and I'm going to ask about that vent, perhaps I'll have to plug it also. If I remember right it's on the upstream side of the butterfly.

The only other thing I'm waffling about it is wither to block off the IAC, at least for now anyway. I'm leaning towards blocking it off unless that becomes a problem.

Ordered a shortened oil pan, that should be here by mid week, also ordered a shortened bolt for the oil filter. I will run without the heat exchanger, at least at first. After I get all these things buttoned up, I'll be ready for the engine management!!!

Terry...
By Ross C 356 Date 2007-08-03 14:28
Terry F

On your post on 2007-05-14 11:20 you pointed to a small valve under the intake.  At the time you posted that I didn't know what that was.  This little solenoid valve is controlled by the computer to let fuel tank vapors back into the engine at the proper time.  If it is not plugged in your check engine light will be on and you will have a code in the computer for the "Purge control solenoid valve".  The computer is only looking to see that it is present and doesn't care if the vacuum lines are hooked up to it.  I would leave it plugged in but remove it from the intake and tape it into the wire harness out of sight.  When I was building mine I didn't care about codes in the computer and didn't even plan to hook up the check engine light.  Since I started driving it I hooked up the check engine light.  The check engine light is a great feature since it trouble shoots any problems and will tell you if something is going wrong.  Certain errors will put the computer in limp mode and you may not get its full performance.  I would also recommend leaving the diagnostic plugs so you can plug a scan tool into it.
Ross
MN
By Terry F Date 2007-08-04 17:07
That's what I suspected Ross. I was wondering if I couldn't use that as a fast idle switch, I think Paul tried something like that on his buggy, but disabled it because he kept forgetting to turn it off. As for the ECU, I have sent my engine harness to Outback to be used to build a custom harness for use with their EMS Stinger ECU. I should get it back in a week or so. I'll have to ask them about cold weather options. I would have loved to save the money I spent on the Stinger but I got the 2.2 after it had been removed and the chassis harness was not saved.

I do have a '99 2.5 motor and I have the entire harness and ECU. I'm planning to send the harness to enginewiring.com for modding so I can use the stock ECU. It's a normally aspirated  motor so I think that would work just fine.

Thanks for the feedback,
Terry
By Paul Moran (DBA Architect) Date 2007-08-08 14:52
Hey Terry - I think 2 different ideas are getting crossed in your post below (I could be wrong, but let me clarify).

I had a switch on my EJ20 to "open/close" the stock idle solenoid on my motor.  Yes, I did usually forget to turn it off and the switch was mounted to the engine. I did finally get the LinkPlus to control this idle solenoid (actually more like a vane - it pivots to provide more or less air), so the switch is no longer needed.

The second idea was that I tried a solenoid for the fuel canister on my wife's 1915 VW as a idle solenoid, but I found that it would not flow enough air to get the engine started.  I'm still working on locating an air solenoid that will flow more air to help her motor start.  For now, a foot on the gas peddle gets it started.  Allan with his EJ25 puts the end of a zip tie between the stop and the throttle end so it idles higher while warming up. Then before he pulls the rail off the trailer, he removes the zip tie...

Paul...
Chicago, IL
EMPI Imp 1002 ('69)/Subaru EJ20 Turbo/LinkPlus ECU
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