By Thomas B 2944 Date 2016-11-26 02:05
Good Evening To All,
During the last month I have been tearing into my buggy's engine, cleaning, measuring and making a list of needed machining and parts required to put it into proper shape. I've been purchasing a few parts during the past year to help reduce the shock of the inevitable major component purchases. Tonight I finished the disassembly by stripping my heads and looking them over. Found a major crack between the seats on one of the heads. Och! I have read that you can weld the cracks between seats but not between the seats and plugs. This seems to be a "patch" fix to me and not something to rely on.
The case seems to be in good shape, a very slight, can barely get my fingernail on it, ridge on #3 main saddle. Will most likely need align bore and full flow. Thrust seems tight. No light seen between case halves when bolted and torqued to spec. and no cracks showing by #3 cylinder. Deck is free of cracks as well. There is no sign of a spun bearing as the areas are blackened.
Crankshaft mics out to below specs and will need under size grind, most likely 1st under size.
One cylinder was "crusty" from water intrusion with the others looking good. Didn't bother measuring them as I will replace them with a complete set.
Rods seem in good shape with no sign of spinning. Bearing inserts have some wear, copper just hazing through on a couple surfaces.
The cam followers are concave. I know they can be ground but will most likely purchase new cam and followers.
Oil pump looks like it may have been replace during the last of its previous life and has spin off filter adapted to it. The pump gears measured 32mm.
I am aware that there are other things, minor compared to the list above. As I have stated I have been purchasing some items over the year.
So, Here's my dilemma. I was in hopes that I could build a little larger engine, 1776, with some head work, camshaft (w100 or w110) and dual carbs. $$$ are mounting up at this point so I thought that I would advocate for some help from the Buggy Bunch.
What's your thoughts Guys and Gals
I have read and read some more and when I was done I read more. There is always someone that sells a better product and evidently others that find fault with that product. Unless you are in this arena on a regular basis you have a hard time sifting through the haze. There are endless combinations but where do you end up with a balance of quality and dollars spent.
By minivolks Date 2016-11-26 13:11
Add up cost for parts. I recommend new heads. And compare that to a turn key. See what the difference is. Turn key has warranty.
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2016-11-27 15:54
What case are you working with?
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2016-11-27 23:17
Good Evening Guys,
I had thought of a turn key but would rather build myself and know what it is then to rely on others work. I think my biggest problem, at this point, is trying to sort through all the information that I have read about. There seems to be more combinations than Carter has liver pills. I don't want to race the thing I just want a mild engine that will be capable of a little highway travel once in a while and be relatively dependable.
I have an AH case, AS41-Dual Relief with Case Savers and 8mm studs. I believe the case to be virgin but think it will need 1st line bore. 90.5 cylinders and pistons with new CW crankshaft and I-beam rods. And as it looks now, new cylinder heads and camshaft.
Which ones will work for me without breaking the bank. After reading, I am most concerned with getting components that will work well with each other. That said I will have to make a decision about funds after I get a workable combination.
Thanks for getting back to me guys. I thought that everyone had gone into hibernation for the winter.
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2016-11-28 03:09
Lots of people you could ask. CBPerformance has some good tech people. Roy at MOFOCO would also be a good contact.
By minivolks Date 2016-11-28 13:01
It is satisfying doing the work yourself. Do you have any how to hot rod your vw books? I rebuilt mine, the right tools are a must. From your post you just want reliable and strong? Do you have a machine shop in your area. They could make sure both halves of block are square and no cracks. Buy german parts, the after market stuff is junk!
I have a one over stock cam, new crank, pistons and heads. It has the stock one barrel carb, which works ok, but not enough with the cam. A two barrel carb would be plenty. It goes great!! Only hold back is tranny. I would recommend a highway tranny. I can run 65 70 on the highway but needs that extra gear ya know? Just revving to high at high way speed. Remember, back then, speed limit only 55.
By minivolks Date 2016-11-28 13:05
Where do you live
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2016-11-29 01:44
Good Evening Minivolks,
There are many reasons why I wish to assemble the engine myself, one of them is $$$ and still another is the satisfaction of a job well done. My grandfather once called me "Temporary Tom" because, and he was right at the time, I would work on a machine for hours then ride it for minutes just to repair it again. I have always remembered this lesson as a guide to doing any job in my adult life.
I have one book, it is not that great. As far as tools go, I have purchased many tools specific to working on the Vw engine. There is no substitute for the proper tools to do any job. I have been pleasantly surprised at the quality of the "China" tools. I expected to get "Globemaster" quality but so far they have performed the task with out fail. So far I have done OK using the internet for information that I have needed, although, I have one book that I have asked Santa for.
I agree that some of the aftermarket parts are junk but have found very little German stuff available, especially when it comes to performance stuff. From what I have been reading there are quality parts out there but determining the quality is hard to do without experience, that's why website like this are so important. There is always someone out there that has the valid information that you need.
Good point about the 55 speed limit on highway. My first buggy had large rear tires which made it hard to operate at highway speeds. This is why I want to increase the engine size to 1776.
I called CB Performance the afternoon from work and got some information. Marie wants me to change from a Part #1444 head to a Part #1672 but really don't see what makes the 1672 head better for my application. I don't like to follow blindly, I want to know why. Anyway, time will tell if I find out why. I figure at this point I will work up a "What would be nice" list then make some decisions base on it. I have about a month coming up that I will have more time to mull over all the info I have.
Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.
P.S. Gardiner, Maine
By minivolks Date 2016-11-29 19:59
Not to many buggy shops up there. What about a VW dealership? Might be some old timers in there. Never know!! Case of beer and your on your way.
I was always told that if the engine is to hopped up it will not be a good daily driver. And vice versa. I understand you want that balance.
Remember, engines are air compressors. More air equals more fuel equals more fun. Sure, compression is nice, just remember being at a stop light and the engine is hitting hard from a big cam is sweet, just hard to keep idling in my opinion.
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2016-12-02 00:39
Took my case up to a local machine shop that my place of work does business with, well known automotive machine shop in area. Told them to get in touch with me at work as soon as they knew anything. Did tell them that if the case checked out I wanted it hot tanked and bored to except 90.5 cylinder and full flowed. They will also give me a price on the parts that will be needed to complete the 1776 build.
I do have a few questions for the Buggy Bunch.
1. At this point I am planning/looking at the Empi HPMX 40 dual carbs. I know there are those out there that think I have listed a 4 letter word but have done some reading, lots of reading, and have run across many that have liked the version 3 of these carbs. Would I need the basic or deluxe kit for my build? I believe the deluxe kit comes with offset manifolds. Do I need them offset?
2. If I use CBP's 1444 heads with 40mm x 35.5mm valves should/could I use ratio rockers 1.25-1 or should I stay with stock?
2. What would the benefit(s) of using the CBP #1672 heads? Would they be worth the Och! factor?
4.Would I be better off using an Engle W100 or W110 camshaft for a 1776 engine? Other?
There has got to be someone out there that has traveled this path before and has some knowledge that they could pass on. I am trying to move the molecules efficiently by matching the components.
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