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Previous Next Up Topic Public / General Discussion / PROPER OIL FOR REBUILD BREAK-IN (12914 hits)
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-10 12:22
I know this subject has been gone over many times, but since I have spent the last 1.5 yrs in getting my "Lil' Bugger" back on the road, I have to field the question one more time as I know things change all the time.

The 1600 engine has been completely rebuilt and I want to start with the proper oil, what do you guys think?

Also, once I've gotten the first 500 miles on it, should I stick with the same oil?

I think I'll have it back together in a week........???!!!.....
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-11 16:43
CAN ANYONE EVEN TELL ME IF 15W-50 (SYNTHETIC BLEND)  WOULD BE A GOOD CHOICE.....?

I'M READY TO START THIS LITTLE CAR  UP AGAIN AFTER 1.5 YRS IN HIBERNATION.
By Paul G Date 2014-08-11 21:08
I wouldn't recommend a synthetic anything for initial startup. There is some seating that has to take place. I was always told to use strait 20wt oil, but that is hard to find anymore. The first oil is changed as soon as the engine warms up, and from then on the proper weight is used. I've stuck to tradition and have used Castrol 30wt oil in my VWs all year (mild climate.)
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-12 02:53
When you say 30W, do you mean non-detergent..? I guess  I understand the need to seat internal workings though.  Makes sense.

And as I understand you, I need to put the 30W Oil in, crank the engine till it starts, then turn it off and switch to the regular oil? Is this right?
By Ron S 3875 Date 2014-08-12 14:51
VW engines do not have a easy prime method like a Chevy or Ford where you use a drill and slotted driver down the distributor shaft hole.  I have seen a home built luber pump that was made for VWs but unless you do engine work a lot that is a lot of extra work to make.
With all said remove the plugs put in your 30 weight castrol or equivalent, then hand turn the engine for a couple turns making sure all inside is free and clear (depending one storage, walls of cylinders can form some light rust), if any stoppage is found rock engine back and forth at the spot to see if it is rust that will clear.
Leaving plugs out after you hand turn engine a couple times then crank engine two or three times for a about 15-20 seconds each this will prime the oil passages.  If you have a oil pressure guage then watch while doing this to make sure pressure reaches a working value and maintains it while cranking. 
Now if all went well put plugs back in and start it up (if your carb is not bad or gummed up). 
Warm up the engine good then vary speed up and down to exercise all parts well.
After that drive for 100-300 miles then change and switch to your choice of oil and viscosity that best fits your location. 

Detergent Oil
By Paul G Date 2014-08-12 21:19 Edited 2014-08-13 03:43
I would use regular detergent motor oil, I'm not sure where I would find a non-detergent oil anymore. The very first oil shouldn't be in there long.
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-13 00:39 Edited 2014-08-13 00:54
Well I got the hand and battery cranking done without a hitch. Re-installed the plugs and now find that I'm not getting fuel to the carb. I put some air in the tank with the fuel hose disconnected from the fuel pump and I'm
getting good fuel through the line. When re-connecting the fuel line to the pump, NO FUEL TO THE CARB.

I poured a little gas in the top of the carb and it cranks and fires, but won't run on it's own. Now, during the rebuild, I decked the 1600 stocker with lots of chrome, including a new chrome fuel pump and I'm wondering if maybe I should replace it with the old pump...??

I have to tell you, after a major heart attack 1-1/2 years ago, being kissed off by the doctors, lots of rehab and therapy, I can't wait to get "Lil' Bugger" back on the road again. This little car will give me my life back again. This will make 46 years of driving her. Needless to say, any help would be greatly appreciated...................
By Paul G Date 2014-08-13 03:46
Look at the new chrome pump and see if the pin that passes through the center of the pump body is in place. They have been known to fall out.
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-13 03:50
Thank you, never thought of that....................  I will
By Ron S 3875 Date 2014-08-13 19:14
I have had similar issues with fuel to carb on two cars that sat for more then a year.
Both had issue with varnished and gummed up fuel, from under the tank on the feed tubes and line filter and even the pump.  On both I had to replace the rubber tubes and flush the lines with carb cleaner all the way to the pump, replace the inline filters and pull the pump and completely flush it with solvent.  One I had to just plain replace the pump with a new electrical one as I could not get it to clean out.

If you remove the line from pump to carb, pop it into a coffee can then crank engine for 20 or so seconds you should find a pint or so of fuel, if not things are clogged.
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-13 23:03
Just back from the hospital again, getting tired of the needles. Oh well, I still have the Dune Buggy.  (LOL)

Ron, I will try to pull the pump this evening and check it out.  I already blew the lines out so I know they're clean. I had already pulled the carb (single barrel) and cleaned it out last summer during the rebuild.

I'm sure I'm so close "I can taste it" as the old saying goes.

Thanks,
The "Ol' Fella"
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-14 00:32
I pulled the new chrome fuel pump and was supprised to find that the plunger rod wasn't even making contact with the lever in the pump.....??????  DUH-H-H.......   (too short....?)

I'lll try the old pump tomorrow morning..........

I'm thinking I should not have used the spacer between the pump and the block.
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-14 17:44
Well, now I've found that I get fuel from the tank through to the fuel line at the carb by blowing air into the tank.

So it appears that not getting fuel into the carb yet. So, I will work on that today. I'm sure the fuel pump is working O.K.
By Ron S 3875 Date 2014-08-15 13:17
I am still wondering if you have a partial block in the tank bottom, you should not need pressure to get free run fuel to back of car from the front. 

I keep an old one gallon metal can that has a hose barb screwed into the bottom of it, rigged a hanging hook on the top and a couple foot section of fuel line runs from the hose barb.  I can fill the can with a half gallon of gas hang it some where above the engine and hook the fuel line direct to carb to test that then move it to the fuel pump input to test that.

SOunds like your almost there.
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-15 22:21
I GOTTA TRY THAT, THANKS
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-17 18:24
Ron, I tried that with the gravity can and the pump does nothing..????
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2014-08-17 19:50
You need to use the right size pushrod for the type of pump you are using.

If you are using the older style generator pump (its more upright) you use a 4.25" pushrod.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-98-1270-B
or
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-127-025-D

If you are using a newer alternator styled pump (it is angled) you need to use the 4.0" pushrod.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-127-025-G
By Ron S 3875 Date 2014-08-18 16:41
While your looking at the plunger rod length, take and have some one crank the engine with the pump off but plunger in.  Make sure it is raising and lowering while engine cranks. 
By bob P 3255 Date 2014-08-18 19:41
As it turns out, the plunger rod was the proper one, but I had the fuel lines backwards..  Senior moment (actually a week).

I can now say that the "Lil' Bugger" is running again.
Now all I have to do it finish putting her back together.

YEAH..................................

Ol' Timer Bob
Previous Next Up Topic Public / General Discussion / PROPER OIL FOR REBUILD BREAK-IN (12914 hits)

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