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Previous Next Up Topic Public / Dune Buggy Build Advice / Cable Shortening (7112 hits)
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2012-11-11 13:28
Hi All,
     I am thinking ahead a little and was inquisitive to now if there was any way to determine the length of the cables before installing them in their tubes, or would it be best to wait and install them, determine the length and then remove them to crimp the new ends on. I suppose that if you used an original length cable and deducted the length in chassis that was removed in the shortening procedure, you should come out to the desired lengths, but???? I am afraid that this could lead to a bout with Murphy's Law and then the additional use of plastic a CIP1. I am most likely answering my own question but thought that I would get the Buggy Bunch to chime in on the subject first.
     By the way, there does not seem to be much activity on the DBA at this time. Is this normal or is everyone "bugged" out for the year?

Tom
By Brad H 1498 Date 2012-11-11 14:12
I would wait to cut the cables till after everything is in place. There are too many variables and an 1/8" here and 1/8" there can change a lot of things.

And I agree the DBA has definitely slowed down a lot lately. I've noticed it for quite a while and compared to when I first joined it's pretty much ground to a hault.......

brad
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2012-11-12 00:04
Hi Brad,
     Been reading some of your exploits at the Salt Flats. Very interesting. Although a little out of my league and a little more than a weekend trip, Maine to the Salt Flats, and that's going to happen, NOT! Think it would be a nice thing to add to a Bucket List, if I had one.
     Well, kind of figured that I should wait to cut the cables. Kind of hate to do the "job" twice but sometimes that is the best way. Can't blame me for looking for a short cut on my "labor of love". I picked up the bolts to make the new end out of the other day. Just have to extend the threads, cut the the heads off and then center drill the cable holes. I remember back when I built my first buggy, late 69 to early 70, I did all of the above but added one more step. I cut threads in the cable holes which, supposedly, bit into the cable when they were crimped on. Never had a problem back then so will try it again. What's the worst that could happen, as long as I do some "solid" testing before I declare it safe? If I have to do it differently it will be the third time apart, which should be the "charm", as they say. Another buggy enthusiast on the Sanba used silver solder on the ends before he crimped his on. Don't believe the heat would be too excessive and remove the temper from the cable strands. It sounded interesting anyway. Maybe I could add that step.

Thanks for your input,
Tom
    
By LoCashJohn Date 2012-11-14 02:18
My buddy Lester and I used to offer shortened cables for buggies but have since stopped.  For the most part you have a sound plan for calculating your new cable length so long as the parts store gave you the correct cables to begin with.

There were some slight changes in length over the years and I'm afraid I don't have that data in front of me.  If you're making your own cables anyway I would advise you to just wait until the chassis is ready, slide the full length cables in and take the necessary measurements.  If you make them now based off a "good guess" you run the risk of  messing up.  Besides if your buggy isn't ready for them yet you're just doing "busy work" that may go wrong.  Patience Daniel san.

As for traffice of DBA, it has been a little slow but I guess I'm partially to blame (maybe 1/300th??).  I have been out of town an awful lot and my buggy has been on the back burner as a result.  Starting December 8th I'll be on vacation until January 2nd so I hope to get a LOT done in the shop.  Look for updates on Project: Strange Brew in the Builders Showcase

<a href="http://www.LoCashRacing.Org">http://www.LoCashRacing.Org</a>
More brains than bucks...
By Brad H 1498 Date 2012-11-14 05:21
I solder the ends of my throttle cables (I use a hydraulic clutch) because it comes off ond on a lot (more than I want it too) It really helps save the end from fraying to the point of having to replace it.

Bonneville is a hoot, but ya, a long road trip from Maine. It's 24 hours of driving for us.

brad
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2012-11-15 00:50
LoCashJohn and Brad,
     Thanks for the input, but as I stated in the original post, I was most likely answering my own question. Most likely my inner self speaking to me. As LoCashJohn said, "Patience, Daniel san".
     Brad, You said that you "soldered" your throttle cable. Was that silver or 60/40 solder? Is there a benefit to using the silver solder, other than a higher melting point which would most likely mean a little solider connection? Maybe I just answered my own question again.
     As far as the activity on the DBA, I thought that I would have all kinds of time to work on the buggy now that I have retired but have found that I have more to do than when I was teaching full time. Maybe that's it, everyone is busy "working for the man."

Tom
By Brad H 1498 Date 2012-11-15 13:45
I just use regular solder, nothing fancy. It's funny, everyone I know including my parents are busier as retired folk than when they had a carreer. No moss on a rolling stone :-). I know for myself as a working stiff, I do more on my holidays that I do when I'm working. I actually look forward to going back to work to rest up. Now go work on your buggy!!!!! ;-)

brad
By Sandsurfer Date 2012-11-16 01:29
Silver solder is a lot stronger than conventional tin/lead solder. I always use silver solder and have never tried conventional solder on cables.
Jerry....
By Larry G 3220 Date 2012-11-16 01:58
I wasn't sure about the strength silver solder on the emergency brake, and clutch cable so I brazed them. I used MAPP gas, and brazed about the last 2 inches. I've used silver solder on bicycle cables for years.

Larry
By Thomas B 2944 Date 2012-11-16 02:51
Good Evening Gentlemen,
     Looks like we have a true discussion here. I will have to see what I can do to keep the discussion going with my two cents.
     When ever I have worked with cable in the past I have cut it with a torch to keep it from fraying. I had never thought of soldering, but it seems to me that it should work. The question remains as to what strength characteristic will you be left with? I would be concerned that brazing would draw the temper from the cable stands, thus weakening the cable but giving a strong joint. Brad said that he used regular solder 60/40, to solder THROTTLE cable. Would this be strong enough or would it be to soft for use with E-brake and clutch cables? Although I have not silver soldered for quite some time, college days or even high school, I think I will add this to my cable shortening procedure. I'll have to go back and review the technique again though.
     On the subject of retirement Brad, I had arranged to work on the buggy in a good friend's garage this winter to reduce the heat bill and allow me to do some fiberglass work on the body. Five weeks ago I went down to work on getting my transmission cleaned and painted but also helped his mechanic on a few jobs, an ex-student of mine, and found myself on the payroll. So now I am turning wrenches during the day as well as recouping from surgery. I wasn't looking for a job, I just wanted to work on the buggy. They keep tell me that in retirement every day is Saturday but I have not seen that yet. I do miss my students and the other staff. They tell me that this will pass in a year or so.

Tom
Previous Next Up Topic Public / Dune Buggy Build Advice / Cable Shortening (7112 hits)

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