Rob,I will get you these measurements tomorrow...The tube does brace on the crossmember but it has a small tab holding it up a little...

I was thinking that the tow bar had a small bend in the end,at least that is what the pic in the add looks like and in the instruction manual I thought it said something about turning the curve down when setting the holding pin hole.I will have to go back and look at that.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce,

I don't know if that picture shows an original Tow'd tow bar or not. It does look like some fresh  steel.  Here is the other picture I have of a tow bar. The hitch looks different, and it looks like some period patina on it too. It also appears to have no bends.

Rob

Worked to late last night to get the pics posted so I will get them tonight I hope...

Bruce

Rob,After going back and looking at the add and instructions I was incorrect thinking it had a curve..It is straight and I would think that last pic with the paint and rust on the bar is period correct with that hitch...Got you all the measurements last night but didnt get to post them,will try to this evening...

Bruce

finally get to use my computer tonight,lol,Here are the pics along with a couple of the body after a couple sprays of oven cleaner,think one more shot shouold get the most of it but maybe 2 more shots..

Bruce

Rob,If I still dont have a shot you need just let me know,
Bruce

and the last for tonight..

The old metalflake looks gorgeous! You are lucky all the original pieces are there. Mine has replacement fenders and hood so I'm going to have to go for a complete re-paint, one of these days.

Thanks for the detail photos! I'm going to make the replacement brace next week.

Rob

Good Luck on the brace Rob..We also think the old color is awesome,to bad both fenders are broke and will have to be reglassed and the holes in the hood are busted out and will have to be reglassed and the body has some small dings and stuff that will need to be reglassed so I am afraid that I will have to give her a complete paint job also,but we will see if I can save some of the original..

Thanks for all the help guys,I am getting to parts were I will need coaching,maybe this rain will not hit us this weekend so I can get some more work done.

Bruce

Here is a mock up of the frame so far,this will let me know if we like the colors and if it is how we want the underneath to look once the body is put back on...Any and all comments welcome...I know it really needs to be completely taken down and sand blasted then re finished,but this will get me by for the summer I believe...Some friends of mine and I were talking the other day about how to finish under the buggy body and the rails,we discussed using some of that brush or spray on bed liner,it would be tough and resist rock dings better than paint,any ideas about this? anyone seen it done before ? ...  I will have to give the body at least one more spray of the oven cleaner,some of the paint is being stubborn (the black is the worst)  but she has come along way from the blue..Got some airplane stripper to clean the rollbar with,this way I can clean up the rust and just paint it for now without it peeling off the chrome...I have to try and fix this celinoid as it is completely busted around the one bolt and has a hole outta the side,Got some of that steel epoxy putty you mix and form with your hands and am going to try and fix it with that as it does still work,if this works I can get a new one later.Will be ordering the parts for the motor and stuff this week,then maybe next week I can get the chrome on her before I start setting the body back on..Bought a Haynes repair manul for the VW so I wont have to ask to many questions about the motor...
Ok now pics..
Bruce

And before someone asks...Yes the shocks are just hanging from the top bolts at the moment...I am thinking of taking the steering lincage off and painting it all green also,any comments?..

More pics of the body.
Bruce

Can anyone tell me what length new throttle cable to order ? since mine was looped around and mated with some baling wire to lengthen it and I dont know how long it was...Also should I get a replacement rubber piece for the steering connection between the rod and steering box or will a new u-joint style work better or even fit on my steering rod

Thanks,
Bruce

I like the black/green paint combo.

I would hold off on using bedliner on the underside if you plan to tear it down for a more in depth going over after the summer season. Bedliner is next to impossible to take off.

A new OG (black rubber with cloth) steering joint would be the way to go if it has a VW steering column. They are inexpensive and german tough enough for light Tow'd use.

Thanks Rob..Found a urethane coupler for the steering will that work ok ? Also what kind of front end do I have ,Link and kingpin or what ?

Thanks again,
Bruce

Don't use the urethane coupler for the steering. Its a BAD accident waiting to happen.

Good reading:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=372691&highlight=urethane+steering

Like Jeff say's, the urethane couplers have a bad reputation for breaking.

Your front suspension is a 'king-pin', used by VW until 1966.

Ok no urethane,so i take it the urethane coupler for the linkage is a bad idea also ? Can someone guide me on the fan shroud,want to get a chrome one,is their different ones ?I looked up the block number on the motor and it is a mid 1966 and i am guessing it is a 1600,but the pan numbers set it at a 1963,could the block have been changed using older parts ? Am looking at a full chrome dress up kit off ebay for a beetle or bus will this work ?
 
See i told you guys i was gonna ask lots of questions,and i know some will be dumb...roflmdbo...

Thanks for all the help,
Bruce

The advice for the coupler is due to the fact that if it breaks you lose steering. Many "kits" (buggies. replicas) tend to drop the steering column so this places additional stress on the coupler due to the increased angle. This is stress the coupler was never designed to take. Shift coupler is a different story. Most will say stick to the stock style, but it really doesn't matter.

For the chrome kit alot of people are gonna tell you there is nothing better than OEM German. Thats true...but go for the chrome. It will work just fine for what you are doing, and in my opinion it makes the engine stand out.

You need to know if you have the 36hp version of the doghouse version to be sure you buy the right one. If your re-doing that black one it looks like you have a non-doghouse (36 hp or "early") version. Doghouse shrouds have a kick out on the back of the shoud (toward the front of the car near the fan inlet) which houses the oil cooler. Early (non-doghouse or 36 hp)versions have a smooth area near the intake as the oil cooler is inside the shroud.

Wow thanks for the advice..the fan shroud does stay flat down to the screws..I am guessing i have a single port intake ? Gotta replace the cooling tins as someone has cut and bent these to get it the plugs or something and look really bad...the 2 tubes coming off the in take that goes to the mufflers are not hooked up,are they needed or can they be bypassed and removed for new exaust ?

Thanks,
Bruce

Again, if we are dealing with the "black" engine, then yes....you have a single port intake/heads.

The tubes that come off the exhaust are used to heat the are/fuel mixture to prevent carb icing and improve fuel atomization. Are they needed? Depends on your climate really. I have run without them. The car may not run as smooth when cold, but once it warms up it should be fine.

Thanks again,yes all questions are for the black motor on the buggy now....guess the only reason to change thes would be if i put on a different carb and intake setup,should be able to get new exaust with these on it...any advice on setting her up with a exturnal oil filter,kind of like the looks of the ones with the braided hoses,can this be done on this motor ?

Thanks again,
Bruce

If you are going to keep the dual cannon exhaust then by a filter pump tht is the easiest way to gain an oil filter. The pump cover has a filter adapter and is a simple bolt on conversion. No external plumbing needed..

I've run a uerathane coupler on my buggy for 17 years, changed it when I rebuilt last year, only because it was orange. Still looked as good as the day I bought it.

brad

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/search.asp

A full flow pump and one of these kits would be the easiest bet (outside of a filter/pump combo) to get a filter and lines look.. I would call Moore to make sure everything will fit together first.

Thanks for the advice everyone....I think i will just order everything from moores that way i know it will all work....I checked my steering connection and it is straight in line with the box no drops so the urethane might be ok,unless i can find me a stock part....

Than ks again,
Bruce

I just went and read that thread about the urethane,doesnt sound good at all,with the wife and kids and grandbaby riding I want it safe.They had a link to a site with the proper parts...so thanks for the link...spent most of the day making a parts list to make a order,did spray the body again,man some spots are just being stubborn,but it is almost all green again...Cant wait to do a body mock up now..

Thanks again,
Bruce

I Think I got most everything ordered tonight,new hydraulic clutch and brake pedal assembly alsogot lots of cool stuff to dress this little girl up,just dont know what rims to get yet so I am putting smooth moons on original rims for now,the only thing left for winter now will be a disc brake conversion and new paint if needed,think I have figured out how to save the old color without the glass work showing...lots of work to get started on in a week or so when all the parts arrive so I guess I need to get the body done this week.I also have a guy fixing the original wingow frame for me then I just need to get a windshield cut and put in,hopefully we will be riding again by the middle of june at the latest.

Went and met my oldest daughters new father in law to be last night,he is a vw and sand rail fanatic,dont know how many vw bugs,beetles and bahas he had along with 3 or 4 rails he even had one old glass buggy out in the weeds,to bad he wont part with none of them,not sure what kind of buggy it was but I did get a pic of it so I can try looking it up...My grandson is gonna have a ball when he gets older,the other gpa owns a bunch of land around a watershed and has buggy trails all over it...

Thanks for all the help,oh yea I did order a original steering coupler instead of the urethane one.
Bruce

cant decide on bumpers..I like the looks of the ones on both these buggys..I really like the old tube oval on the red one but cant seem to find any on the net,anyone know if they are still available or not. Will the bumpers everybody is selling for theregular buggys work on the tow'd or will they have to be custom made or modified?

Thanks for the help,
Bruce

Couldnt stand it anymore so I set the tub and hood on just to see how she looked now..To bad I gotta take it back off to do the glass work...Have any of you guys tryed to repair the gel coat on a buggy,after watching them show how to do it on a boat on utube today I just may try doing it if I can get the same gel coat from meadowbrook...then do a wet sand of the whole car after getting the last of the blue off and trying to buff it out like it was supposed to originally be instead of spraying it with clear coat for the summer...at least it would look better than primer if it didnt match real well and then she could be painted this winter...

Any help on doing the gel coat or were to find a supplier (been hunting the net but cant find anything so far) would be greatly appriceated.

Thanks for all the help again,
Bruce

oh yea now some pics....

Have another dumb question...I know you guys wish I would quit asking dumb questions...lol...

Can I remove the front sway bar (?) as the front of the hood sets on it  they had electrical tape on it to keep it cushioned from the hood rubbing on it,any other fixes for this problem ?

Thanks again,
Bruce

Yes...trash the front swaybar. It really isn't doing anything.

Thanks.....my parts started coming in yesterday..Im excited...but not now,when pulling the head cooling tins all the screws busted in the head,now i cant get the nut off the crankshaft pully to get that tin off and paint the pully,even used my 1/2 inch impact on it to no avail,any tricks....can i pressure wash the oil cooler and jugs as they have nesting in them along with mud and grease...now i just had a dumb red wasp sting me on the finger then cheek,and i was leaving him alone,geesh,lol.....

Thanks ,
Frustrated and bummed Bruce

Guess if it was to easy it wouldnt be no fun,lol

A 1/2 breaker bar and pipe will probably do it. The front pulley shouldn't be on that tight...it might be all that black paint.

Those little screws break all the time. I often drill them out and re-tap them, and then use little stainless buttonhead screws.

I don't know if I would pressure wash them...but you can put a hose to them. Make sure nothing gets in the intake or exhaust ports though.

I was gonna try the pipe,but I just turn over the motor as it is now,am I missing something like how to lock the pully while trying to break the bolt loose...I can handle drilling those screws out and re threading them....The paint may have allot to do with it but I think it has allot to do with all the rust as i oven cleanered most of the paint off the motor.
Havent pulled the exaust so that wont be a problem and i bolted the intake back on and have the old air breather on,so no water should get in..so much sandy clay buid up inbetween the fins of the jugs I dont think just a water hose will get it....

Thanks again,
Bruce

To lock the motor I use a long section of angle iron bolted onto the flywheel.

Ahh that would work great but I still have the motor on the tow'd as i can get to it easily,was just thi king it would be easy to swap out all the chrome pieces,but it is turning into more of a job than I thought,lol....thought about blocking the tires with blocks so the buggy cant move,if it had e brakes I would try that also....will figure something out today...

Thanks for the help,
Bruce

If the tow'd jumps chocks, take a wheel off and drill out two holes for two lug bolts in a piece of angle iron. The angle will keep the wheels from moving the buggy forward and over the chocks because it will have more leverage. (that's what I do when I need to get the required torque on the nuts that hold the rear drums on).

Good luck,
Jay

Awesome,great idea,i can do that....man i sure am glad you guys are willing to help me out with all the advice...

Thanks again,
Bruce

Just thought of something,i know it is another dumb ?  .... this bolt is standard righty tighty isnt it ?

Thanks,
Bruce

got the bolt loose...Still waiting on parts to be delivered so I can start putting the motor back together,This week was bad for doing the body work as it has been raining and I have it out under a tree.Hopefully I will have some progress pics by the end of this weekend,3 days to work on it.

Have a great weekend everybody,and those of you with running buggy's have allot of fun riding them around for me..lol..

Bruce

yea !!! another update finally...spent the weekend finishing up stripping the body and painted the motor and transmission,since I still hadnt got my parts in...But tuesday was a good day as the ups truck showed upand has everyday the rest of this week along with a couple fedx trucks..I believe I still have one more order on its way...but I have been like a kid at christmas with all the cool stuff,got the new mufflers in today.Got some shots with most everything back on the motor,am thinking of ordering a 2 carburetor set up,but may wait till winter for that as June 20 is coming up quick,wanna go riding on fathers day...plus I got knife orders to get filled and have been neglecting that part of the shop to play with this buggy...if anybody is curious about my other hobby here is my website,sorry but I havent done any updates to it in a long time,
http://bruceevans.homestead.com/open.html

ok now back to the buggy,I know your not supposed to sand the metalflake before a clear coat,but I still have some faint oxydation in the paint and some faint traces of the blue that I can't pressure wash out,so I was thinking of giving it a 220 then 400 grit sand real quick then give it a few coats of clear to save the original color.But after getting the blue outta all the little cracks and chips I may just have to go ahead and paint the whole thing,was thinking of fixing the worst parts for now and doing some old school graphics in flat black to cover the new glass for the summer and clearing  the rest for now..then this winter I can decide what needs to be done about paint,cant make up my mind though,guess I could just paint it a dark metalic green and be done with it though.
Ok now some pics.

No the motor isnt blue,it is a dark green metalic but the camera wants to flood it out and change its color sometimes..I am going old school with the rims for now,original vw rims painted dark metalic green with new chrome moon hubcaps...
More pics.
Bruce

As you can see I oppted for the black shocks with the chrome coil over, think it looks better,Gotta put the front ones on still..Stripped the roll bar and boy is it in bad shape,guess it will get painted black again for now.Both the boots on the tranny were busted so had to order new ones,yellow of course,the wife wanted the yellow accents along with the chrome on the motor.She did get me that new toolbox in the back ground for a early fathers day present (think that was just to try and get me to keep the mess down some,lol)..Thats it for now,more parts to put on tomorrow,hopefully this wekend I will get to do the glass work and start setting the new pedals and steering shaft and the new shifter and stuff like that then the new wiring...

Anybody know were a good tutorial on how to install the hydraulic clutch is on teh web,cant seem to find out how to put her together,and should I make a hard line from a brake line to the back of the buggy or just order that hose kit and use it from front to back??????

Thanks for looking and for the help,
Bruce

Still got a mess on the carport,but at least my tools are put up..rofl..

Bruce

Bruce,

It looks good. Couple of observations for you.
1. Those colored are notoriously unreliable. Since you got it...run it. But be aware that if things start running rough its one of the first things you should check. They have a tendency to crack.
2. I have never clearcoated flake before....but I have painted a few cars. I would think that you need to scuff with at least 600grit to get the clear to stick. Just don't be too aggressive.
3. For the clutch...On my Avenger I ran a hard time from the master cylinder to a connector on the tranny. I think you need a flexible line from the frame to the tranny as there is movement there...especially from the slave cylinder. So...you can run a combination of hard and flexible, or just run flexible. the whole way. Flexible might be the best. Just make sure it is secured and protected.

I was curious about that with the plastic,but it will be easy to remove if need be..Thanks on the line,think I will just order the tubing and run a pipe through the body to run it in.Now to hook it up correctly.

Thanks again,
Bruce

I'm using the plastic (nylon) flex hose on my buggy for the clutch with no problems at all. It's a very simple install just make sure the ends on the line are square when you put them in the fittings. It will take a bit of time to get fluid moving in the system since the master is below the slave, but once fluid is flowing it will go quickly.

brad

Thanks,i will order that kit,now i just gotta figure out how to mount the slave cylinder..since my clutch arm is curved back over the transmission instead of being straight up..any ideas,you can see it in the pics above....
Do I just use brake fluid in the clutch like in the brakes...can this hose be used for the brake line also ????
Thanks,
Bruce

GREAT JOB ON DETAILING THE MOTOR, THE SHROUD IS AWSOME THE WAY IT REFLECTS THE ENGINE COMPONETS, KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK.      KEN................

Is the clutch arm bent because of body clearance issues? If not you'll have to replace or straighten that one. If it is you'll have to fabricate a mount on the tranni that allows the slave to operate in as straight a line as possible as  it's action is very linear. Yes just use brake fluid. I use DOT 5 synthetic in my car

brad

On my Avenger I used the stock mounting bracket and pretty much added a metal block that I drilled and tapped. I added a heim joint to the end of the cylinder and bolted it to the block. I may be able to snap some pics if you need them.