By Rick M 333 Date 2008-09-14 21:44
I've almost got my SR back together after a second round of painting, and I'm still having fitment issues with the doors - see photos below. When I bought the car the doors didn't quite fit right, and in taking the thing apart twice I still can't find the issue. The passenger side is the worst, the rear is sprung out almost an inch. I've tried tweaking the hinges, putting shims under one side of the hinge but it still doesn't seem to make a difference. I can push the door into the jamb without much problem...there just seems to be a lot of twist somewhere that I can't find. I'm not using the VW hood latch mechanism because of the twist - the little latch kept getting caught on the edge of the catch. I've replaced the OEM garage door springs with linear actuators that are solidly mounted to the frame of the hinge mechanism. What I can do and probably will to keep the doors from rattling around (and swinging slightly open) is fasten some sort of catch mechanism to the interior door panel to the interior tub wall. Won't be pretty, but it should bring the doors into more alignment and keep them snug while underway. The only other thing I can think that's keeping the alignment off is the rubber weatherstrip. It looks right, but maybe there's sections that aren't quite flush with the tub...I may take one section out and see if that makes a difference. Anyway, anyone else having these issues? The photos I've seen the doors are all flush with the bodywork.
By Kustoms Date 2008-09-15 00:02
Rick, Mine sits perfect. Why not remove the hinges, set the doors in place using spacer blocks and remake the hinges. You should have access through the front wheel wells.
Here's a dumb question for ya. Do you have the hinges on the right sides?
By Rick M 333 Date 2008-09-15 01:51
I believe so. I marked them as I removed them from the car. They are identical except for a reinforcement bracket that bolts to the pivot point, then to the inner tub wall. I'm not quite sure how I could remake them, as the "Z" bracket that the door actually sits on is 1/4" steel. I'll have to pull the front wheels again and take the door and actuator off again to see if I can actually see what's going on with the mounting point. Can you get a shot of your doors and hinges Tom so I can make a comparison?
By Kustoms Date 2008-09-15 03:25
Did you mark them Driver and passenger or right and left? One is more apt to confuse right and left then driver and passenger especially when one gets tired. I will post photos tomorrow.
By Rick M 333 Date 2008-09-15 03:29
Driver and passenger. Even though they look exactly the same, they are sided? That might explain a few things.... Looking forward to the photos!
By Rick M 333 Date 2008-09-15 16:34
Minor update...I pulled the door and set it where it is supposed to be. There were minor issues with the door seal being not quite flush with the tub sides (I'd love to get new seals...anyone?). But I was able to get a glimpse from the side via a flashlight when I put the hinge plate up to the door. The hinge plate itself (or maybe the door) is warped by 1/8", leaving a space tapering from the 1/8 to zero from outside in to the interior. I'll see if I can mill a piece of aluminum to this taper and mount it on the hinge plate to see if that indeed makes the difference.
By Kustoms Date 2008-09-16 13:44
Here aresome photos. Sorry they are late but I am still working from one of my lap tops at the shop. Its not set up for anything.
Here is a shot of the first mold for the bumpers.
By Kustoms Date 2008-09-16 13:55 Edited 2008-09-16 14:06
BTW; You can use home carpet edge from Home Depot for the body seam in the door jam. Its a soft plastic compound in stead of rubber but it looks identical. Ballys gym uses rubber around there track but I have not found a source for it yet.
Something else you can do for alignment is, make nylon guide blocks. Nowadays all car manufacturers have them in one form or another. Look at a factory convertible door jam. You will see what I am talking about. I do not have one in the shop today so I can't post a photo. I have a mustang coming in by the end of the week so I will post then.
By Kustoms Date 2008-09-16 16:31
Have you looked at the assembly instructions? Check out page 35. Note the hinge straps #4-20. They are adjustable. If you push the inner one forward and the outer one back it looks like it will reorient the hinge pin / arm.
By Rick M 333 Date 2008-09-16 22:19 Edited 2008-09-18 12:06
With my door just sitting in the cutout, it appears to have the same gaps as yours, Tom. Good idea on the bolts on the hinge itself...that just never occured to me to loosen and adjust those. I'll check the Home Depot, too, for the carpet edging. Mines not too bad, just a little beat up from the PO. The assembly instructions are a hoot - they say to shim if the door doesn't fit almost exactly where I have to adjust mine! Great resource and a fun read. I'll get back on the car towards the end of the week, so I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again, Tom!
Edit to update: Shimming under the hinge plate doesn't work, per se. It brought the door into alignment, but then caused the leading edge to be too far up (too large a gap at the front). So, shim off, door bolted tight, and loosening of the four hinge side bolts seemed to do the trick. The door is very close to where it's supposed to be, it looks like the only thing holding it from being perfect is the fitment (or lack thereof) of the rubber gasket on the body. That's a project for another day...at the moment I'm fine with the fit once it's latched in place!
By Bryan A 229 Date 2008-10-05 23:00
If anyone has a p/n for the carpet edging at Home Defect, I'd appreciate it...
By domorr Date 2009-07-03 14:38
I'm also having problems fittng my doors!! Have hours on them and can;t get the gap right. They fit perfect with the hinges off. My hinges have gas strutts instead of springs. I took the strutts off with no luck.
Also tried shimming every whitch way. The hinges were mounted on the car when I got it but the doors wern't attacht. So maybe they are are on the wrong side? I did mark them when I took the car apart but who knows?
Any more ideas from any one? Thanks
By Rick M 333 Date 2009-07-03 15:29
The hinges can be adjusted. It can be done through the wheel wells with the wheels off - you'll need to loosen all the bolts that old the parts together just enough to manipulate the mounting plate. Since you took the struts off that eliminates that variable. Also check to see that the door is actually clearing the rubber molding between the pod and the interior shell. That was an initial issue with mine - it was touching (the door) the rubber towards the front of the car. I wound up notching the rubber to have a little wiggle room around the rivets/bolts/ whatever you have fastening the two fiberglass pieces and knocking the rubber flush with a block of wood and a hammer. It's much better, but I still have a little variance on the driver's door - it sticks out a little bit, but not enough to worry about.
That said, looking at the photos again, it looks like the mounting bolts for the hinge assembly is sitting well proud of the body - they are supposed to be flush. That alone will keep the door from shutting. The hinges aren't 'handed' per se. They just have the little bracket that goes to the windshield mount that needs to be on the correct side.
Keep at it...check overything!
By domorr Date 2009-07-04 11:58
The doors fit great without the hinges (New manx doors seals) but i never thought about the bolt heads. I'll try that first and keep you posted.
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