Hey guys,
After about 9 hours on the wiring Sat. my buddy helping out thinks the Flame Thrower HV was being grounded out by a chassis ground wire connected directly to the - terminal.

Another wiring issue we ran into was the fuse box I bought has no switched power terminal.
They are all constant hot. I don't fully understand the difference.
Also someone told me to get replays to take care of this??

Any advice explanation of constant hot vs. switched hot for a wirephobic like me?

Side note the trip to his house with my trailer brought even more wire phobia. The 189.00 electric brake install I had done the day before Funfest caught fire under the truck. The Silverado system shut down completely from the dead short, the shop had not put a fuse or anything on a 12 foot long hot wire draped across the frame.
I was able to knock it loose from the alt connection before it damaged the truck harness comepletely.

This is why wiring scares me. We will be working on it again today and thrashing for the Sat. show.
I still need to set the windsheld distances up, mount it, and the Sombrero Top.

Any suggestions would be great. I off to the shop, I'll try to log in later.
THANKS!
John

I have suggested these guys in the past - www.watsons-streetworks.com. They sell a ton of electrical goodies for Street Rods as well as VW's. Steve is a great guy and very knowledgeable about wiring. He's a good friend and can probably help you.

Constant hot: A positive lead that is energized at all times, even when ignition switch is off.
Switched hot: A positive lead that is energized only when the ignition switch is turned to accessory or run.

Constant hot: Comes from either the batter, or the large lug on the starter and feeds directly into the fuse block. powers things like your horn, or headlights, flashers or stereo clock.
Switched hot comes from your "on" terminal of your starter switch and runs to your fuse panel to operate things like your wipers, stereo, brake lights, blinkers, etc.

Sorry I think I mislead you.
I know what it means, how do you make it happen is the technical question.
John

On your harness you will have two wires that feed the fuse panel. If you have a diagram you can tell by looking at the rear of the panel and seeing which wire feeds which fuses. usually it will be 1 wire on one side of a group of fuses. Say you see a red wire connected to a group of fuses that includes the wipers, blinkers, brake lights, etc (all the things that usually don't work when the key is off). That supply wire would connect to the inginition switch to the terminal that is hot when the key is in the "on" position.
There should be another wire that hooks to a series of fuses that protect things like the lights, horn & flashers. This is your constant hot and should be connected to the large lug on the starter.

John on mine I had to separate part of the fuse block to make it key on hot.  Just snipped part of the feed to the hot side of some of the fuses (3 I think) and ran a key on hot to that part.  Hope that made sense.

Thanks chuck!
We went ahead set up two fuse boxes one hot and one keyed hot that way I can add extra stuff like gauges, radio, CB, hitch wiring to tow my golf cart, fog lights ect...

Electrical is Done! Hood and gas tank went back on.
Hats off to my buddy John Brown.

Fender beading will go in and all the hood bolts in, in the morning.
Still need to install the windshield and roll bar.
Berrien Buggy under dash support bracket was SLICK for supporting the column and the wiper motor.

I need to double check the specs and make sure the Sombrero and the hard top top position
requirements will work together.

ALSO I'll get the video camera on tomorrow and then we will crank it up. She should finally fire up.

I have problem with the rear disc brake kit also now. The pass rear caliper is tightening but doesn't release.
Every time you use the brakes it get tighter. We got a bad brake light switch and got to bleed the brakes again.
The E cable bracket on the driver side will operate by hand but pass will not.
Neither side has the cable attached. I will try to get a hold of Enrico at Empi tomorrow as well.

Still WAITING for a replacement wheel from American Racing.

Still trying to round up some materials for the show from sponsors also.

I'll be putting the sponsor decals on the trailer that we have received if it's not too hot in the morning.
I'll snap some pics....

We WILL have a car at the show, can't tell you what it will be rolling on or it will drive or push in.
But we WILL be there. period.
The show must go on.

John, when we were having difficulty with the breaks, we had to change the push rod dimension so that it was shorter. Basically what was happening was the master cylinder REAR cup was not coming back enough to uncover the port that allows more fluid into the bore.

It seemed a little strange in that both cups should have cleared their respective bores at the same time (stroke). It sounds like it may be in the caliper, although I wouldn't rule out an adjustment in the master cylinder either.

Sorry I can't be of more help at the moment. Let us know what you find.

jay

It is just the passeneger side that is hanging up.
There were shims on the pass side that were not on the driver.
I can get it to roll with the shims out but the e brake lever will not move.

I keep you posted. I am going to email Enrico also from Empi.
He was great help at the show.
John