By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-24 02:28
I have a stock 1600 rebuilt engine with the Solex 34 PICT 3 carburetor with electronic distributor. I have forgotten how to eliminate the Rich running. Any help appreciated. I guess after driving this Lil' Bugger for 48 years, I forget more than I should.
By Michael T 1299 Date 2016-05-24 21:04
First thought is how is your choke adjustment? Is there power to the wire at choke element? Sometimes they break or come disconnected.
By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-25 00:36
I'll check it out. Thanks
When I first get it to cruise, I tap the gas pedal before starting the ignition and it fires right up. I can hear the click at the carb when I tap the pedal. Does that sound right.?
By Michael T 1299 Date 2016-05-25 06:13
The choke element should heat up after a few minutes of running and the choke butterfly will be all the way open, vertical. You DO have a repair manual right? That will show you how to adjust the choke for summer operation.
Also how is your pre heat tube? If it's plugged and not flowing your manifold heat won't work and that can also result in fuel puddling and a rich condition.
Sounds like you have some basic spring tuning to do.
By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-25 11:46
I think you're right, thanks
By Michael T 1299 Date 2016-05-25 23:17
That click is the bi-metal spring snapping the choke plate to full choke. That's good. Also the high idle cam will rotate over and your throttle arm will be on the highest step or thereabouts. As it runs the element heats and unwinds the bi-metal spring allowing the choke plate to open, At the same time the fast idle cam will back off. if you blip the throttle some the idle slows down more and more until it gets to normal. Your manifold will warm from the hot exhaust flowing through the pre heat tube and you fuel/air mixture is properly atomized. Also your carb will start getting warm air from the big hose that hooks to the air cleaner and runs down through the engine breast plate. All these things work together to supply the correct amount of air at the right temperature and your engine runs happy.
Buggies sometimes have the aftermarket exhaust which really doesn't let the manifold pre heat flow correctly and also if you have a small chrome air cleaner you might not have the carb heat tube.
Hope this helps.
By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-26 21:27
You are right on the money. I have the smaller chrome air cleaner ( have for years ) and it does not appear to have a pre-heater tube. Is there a way to offset this tube to help correct that situation. You Sir, are a great Friend and Help to this old man who should have given up Dunebuggyin' years ago, but it ain't going to happen. This Sat Morning, I am planning to take it to our little rural town Mickey D's and get together with the old-timers Coffee Clutch. That's where all us old timers get together and lie a lot.
Thanks again for you help.
By Michael T 1299 Date 2016-05-27 05:10
Well thanks! Glad I can help if only a little.
Many buggies work just fine with the little chrome air cleaner. So maybe it's not your problem.
One of the old (we're talking 1970's) VW hot-rodding manuals recommended at least a 4" stack if you were going to replace the stock air filter with a chrome jobber. To contain something called fuel standoff. Some of the air cleaners had a long neck that raised the element way up over the carb. Their reasoning was the stock VW air cleaner had an internal stack and the very top of the air filter was at least 4" above the stock carb inlet.
Way back then I had a chromy air cleaner on my stock 1500 engine and it was one of the ones with the long neck that raised the element 4 or 5 inches higher over the top of the carb. The one I have on my 1600 in my Deserter is one of the short louvered ones. I will be extending the neck of that before I install it. If I do. I truly don't know if it matters but if VW did it then it must mean something.
Or maybe I'll just go with a VW Bus or Karman Ghia air cleaner assembly. A stock bug one won't fit.
Maybe just stack a couple of your brand of air cleaner elements on top of one another and use a longer stud. Less restriction, more air flow...?
Maybe all you need is a carb rebuild and a fresh set of plugs.
Keep doing stuff until something works. No quitting.
By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-27 18:10
Thanks Mike, I don't quit. Not even with incurable Cancer and a very weak heart, I'm still going. I tell my doctors that this little car is what keeps me alive, it's better than a health insurance plan.
I'll have to check out that extension stack. I have little to no clearance between the back deck and the top of the Chromie, but I will figure something out. Because it makes sense to me.
Thanks again Mike.
By Vince P 4527 Date 2016-05-29 00:18
I put a stock oil bath breather back on mine, it seems it run better and handle the crankcase ventilation better also. My engine has some crome etc, I use a 67 oil bath on it since it had the duel snorkles. I bead blasted it and painted semi gloss black, it looks good. When I get my Sportster going Im going to do the same thing, it has a 40 horse on it. I may do another 67 for it. I know it wont be correct for the year but I think it will look cool.
By bob P 3255 Date 2016-05-29 14:29
My biggest problem is the lack of clearance at the top of the engine. The small (7") chrome & foam air filter barely fits in the clearance. I am thinking of making the inspection panel larger and possible using a larger opening for clearance to allow a larger and taller air filter if I can make it work. The inspection panel is right above the single stock carb and doghouse so maybe I can make it work. The Road Runner Buggy didn't allow for much clearance.
But like you say, it does look KOOL.
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