Hi Folks,

My name is Steve in Castle Rock, CO and I have always wanted a buggy since I was a kid.  There was a neighbor next door that built them and I always thought they were cool.  I started my project in 2010 and then I had a few distractions like moving my business and buying a boat but I am back on the project now and hope to finish it this fall.  I will post pictures in the best order I can as time permits.  Thanks for looking and commenting.  I have learned a lot from this forum!!

The following pictures are a brand new chassis built on a jig by the VW store.   [url=http://www.v-dubstore.com/]h
Its powder coated and they use original torsions and rear end parts.  The pan is much stronger and much heavier steel than a stock pan.

I have been wanting to see a build using one of those chassis. I saw one in person a few years ago at the VWstore and was impressed. Post lots of pictures.

Mike T

Sure thing Mike.  Some of these pics are old so I will try to get caught up ASAP.  Here are a few moire showing the front beam with adjuster and such.

Here are a few more pics....trying getting caught up to current day!! This is a shot of the transmission. 

We then put on the front disc brake kits and coil over shocks...to make the front a little heavier before the engine arrived. I had the rotors dilled Chevy 5 lug 5x4.75 for a better selection of wheels.

Then we got the engine.  This also came from VWChick at the V Dub Store.  Its a 2176cc engine with dual carbs.  Now I know why they call it a crate motor!!  It was a hoot hoisting it out of the crate and attaching it to the tranny.  My neighbor and good friend Randy is helping me with the build. Really it just bolts on like that? I couldn't believe it!!  That's way too easy!!

I have a ton of pics so I will try to be selective!!  I do have chrome oil filters.  The ugly white one is just for the first 500 mile break in of the engine.

It wasn't long until the body was done.  I made the drive from Colorado out to CA to pick it up.  Bruce and Winnie Meyers were so very nice.  They have a lovely home and I spent quite some time with them talking and getting to know Bruce and his background.  It was a great experience and its not often you get to meet someone with such a history!!  I am proud to be the owner of the first Apple Red Kickout Manx SS!!  Its unit #10 of the new model!!

Thanks for the pointers Brad.  I was told to hoist the engine that way by the engine builder...oops.  We didn't like the idea either.  What would you suggest should I build another one?  I am always looking to learn!! 

I am having some trouble with the coil overs because they are hitting the trailing arms.  I am told it because I am using a new front beam and they are made a little different than the old stock beams.  I have noticed a lot of professional builders like Denmat use a regular shock in the front.  I was going for looks when I picked them out!!

Thanks again Brad!!

When I lift them up with a picker or chain fall, I use a couple of 1" nylon tiedowns and loop them around the exhaust right close to the exhaust port on the head. Plenty of strength there and all you have to do is just make sure the straps don't get casught up in any motor parts.

As for the front end. I fought for years when I was first autocrossing trying to get the understeer under control (front tires going straight instead of turning the car, basically skidding) I ran both sets of torsion leaves and a heavy swaybar and gas shocks. the front was so stiff It wouldn't take a set.

One of the first REALLY big steps I took forward was getting rid of the 3/4" sway bar that clamped on to the bottom arms and instead replaced the top stack of torsion leaves with a 3/4" square bar. this did 2 really good things. It got me clearance under the front end as the car was really low, and it soffened up the front springs so the suspension would actually move and allow the wheels to take a set in corners.

Now this is for racing, but you can sort of accomplish the same thing for a street car for free on you beam. All you have to do is let the top set of leaves float in the beam by taking off the clamping plate on the top adjuster. Leave the set screw that holds the springs in the center holder and just let it all float.The torsion springs are stiff enough to act like a softer sway bar, you will also soften up the front suspension so it won't be so stiff and the set screw will keep the torsion springs from walking left and right in corners changing the suspension geometry. Our cars are much lighter than the Beetles the suspensions were designed for so they are over sprung right out of the box.

At first I ran KYB Gas-a-justs...WAY to stiff. Then I ran KYB GR-2s, much better. Now I run cheap low pressure EMPI gas shocks and they work remarkable well considering how cheap they are.

Hope this helps you out. I'll let you know about the rear of my car in another story LOL. Or you can check out my build thread in the build section. Brad's Buggy Build.

BTW meeting Bruce and Winnie, 10 outta 10 for cool points!!!!

brad

Thanks a bunch Brad!!  Great info.  I love this site and have found folks on here very helpful and full of info.  Yes meeting Bruce and Winnie was a great experience.  I saw one guy had Bruce sign his dash....should have had him do that for me but at least I have the picture!! 

I will definitely check out your build as well!!

Ooops...I just realized I should have put this in the build section!!  Not sure if there is a way to move the thread?

Steve,

Great to be back from vacation (after a 13 hour drive) and see these pics!

Definitely go with the cheap-o shocks both front and  rear like Brad suggested. I order mine from Rock Auto...cheaper than my local parts sotre and they get there real quick. Those coil overs will rattle your teeth out. We even have to drop our tire pressure down to something like 18lbs just to help with the ride. You can also "preload" those Avis style adjusters which will help with the ride too.

How do you use those front and rear plates in a buggy? I mean the plates where the Napolean hat usually is in the front and near where the shift access plate is in the rear. Do they bolt to the "firewall" on the Kick Out?

Can't wait to see more!

Hope you had a great time Jeffrey!!  My supplier....VWChick on here tells me those shocks will work just fine....especially since I have huge wheels and tires and clearance is in short supply in the front 17's up there and 18's on the back....I am following what John Denmat did on his prototype for Bruce.....unfortunately bought them already a while back and probably stuck with them now.  I like the looks so I am gonna give them a try.  I can always switch them out later I guess!!  Professional builders like Denmat even use the standard shocks though so I know you are probably right!!  I am just picky about looks and a glutten for punishment I guess!!

Those plates are right in front and behind the body I am told.  However there is some cutout that I will need to do on the back because of the Manx double well in the body.  The supplier has had a couple customers already use this Chassis in a Manx SS build and she is supposed to be sending me a pattern of how to cut it out.  The front should be fine with no modification.  I hope!!

I go to pick up the newly chromed bar tomorrow.  I have attached a pic of the "before photo".  The problem is that Meyers supplies the bar with stainless hoops and suggest you paint the bottorm part.  Denmat did that on their car.  The bottom part is mild steel and you cant chrome stainless without a copper layer first.  I found someone in PA that will do it for $2000.  No thanks!!  Then I found a local vender that does a spray on silver chroming process with a nice clear coat over it for $500.  Its probably not as hard as chrome but the "show bar" should not be subject to much wear.  I just think a bar needs to be all chrome and consistent.  Guess I am a 70's kid!!

Yeah...we had a great time. Weather not that perfect but overall nice to get away.

Shocks aren't that hard to replace for sure so give them a try. On those rims do you have real low profile tires? Like 40 series?

That front plate will need a cut out for the steering column I assume right? At least you will have something very solid to mount that lower column mount to.

I too am going through the plating/painting/powdercoating dilema with my Deserter windshield posts right now. No plater would touch them. A very nice powdercoater blasted them for me (free) and then called to say I would not be happy with what he could do (honesty is ALWAYS appreciated) so I am stuck with painting. I was hoping for a better outcome but they are so corroded from being left outside by the PO that I will need to fill, prime and paint them.

Sure thing.  I always say a bad day on vacation is better than a good day at work!!

Well these folks are out here in Colorado....they did an awesome job in my opinion.  They will accept parts shipped to them but you have the risk of shipping damage to some precious pieces there!!  There is a DIY kit/machine you can buy to do this yourself.  In my research I learned a lot about this process.  Its a water based paint like products with two coats of the PPG clear over it.  That clear can also be tinted for a colored chrome look too.   Chromers are getting harder and harder to find and this is a new up and coming thing I do believe for those of us that still love chrome.  I am not part of the flat black craze.....cars are meant to be shiny and I LOVE chrome...can ya tell?  check out the pics.

I will post one of the rolling chassis too although its a little out of order.  The tires are 45's in the front and backs are 40's.  I am pretty much trying to mimic the original prototype by John Denmat...I will try to attach the brochure.

Oh in case you are wondering I am single.  That's how I can put newly chromed buggy parts in my living room and live to tell about it!! LOL

Here is a shot of the rolling chassis with the wheels.

Roll bar looks awesome as does the chassis. Its a great look.

I do look forward to what you think about the ride with the coil overs and low profile tires.

Another question....does the Kickout have the same style lip that goes over the Napolean hat on a stock pan? How will you deal with that?

It does have the lip....it will go over the square tunnel I am told.  We will set the body soon.  I may have a few challenges.  I have been told this chassis has been used with this body before as well as others.  There is a lip all the way around the chassis although there is no napoleon hat.  So I will see how it looks when we set it.  I may have to fabricate something as a filler not sure.  I am pretty picky as you know so I will want a nice fit and finish with no gaps.  Wish me luck.  I may have to lean on you guys on here for ideas!!  I have some newer pics with carpet all done. 

Have you ever used wood on your buggies for non support items?  I may have to fabricate a napoleon hat as a filler and wood might be easier to work with than steel.

I am also planning on putting a stereo in it.

I haven't used wood but I have used composite decking material bfore as a body lift.

Its easy to laminate, shapes well, and will not rot.

As I understood the explanation given to me by the originators of this chassis you are using, the flat plate is supposed eliminate any need to use shims or fillers to seal the napoleon hat area on a body that doesn't quite fit in that area. Same with the rear over the shift area. That being said I have never actually seen it done. Never saw one of these chassis with a body on it. I am anxious to see how it all fits up.

Everything looks great so far. Excellent job.

Mike T

Thanks Mike and yes Jeffrey that might be an idea.  Depending on where the body sits both front and back I may have to do some fabricating for a finished look.  The front plate is on the outside of the front firewall of the body.  But the body may have a void or space underneath it back to that front plate from the interior of the car.  In reference to your earlier question Jeffrey I am not sure if the steering column will go over that plate or through it.  My understanding is it will sit over it.  If not, like you said it should provide some extra strength to the collar around the column.

The back firewall will need to be cut Mike.  The Manx has a double well as we all know and I will need to cut it to fit underneath that.  My guess is we will sit the body on and draw it out then cut it to fit before we actually set it on there.  Wish me luck we are hoping to get it set next weekend.

Awesome work on the SS!
Thanks for sharing it with us, and keep it the pics coming!
John

Steve,

How is the project coming? Did you get the body and chassis together?

Man that must be fat flake! My new paint looks like that in person but I can't get the photos to show it that nicely.

Not yet Jeffrey....we took a couple weeks off.  We plan to do some work tomorrow.  Thanks for checking in!!

Thanks Manx....yeah it has quite the sparkle....bold and beautiful...just like in the 70's....still trying to find Bell bottoms that fit and a fro wig to wear while I am driving it!!

Hey folks, sorry I have been out of touch on here for a bit.  Had an auto accident and that was a set back.  Back to life now and ready to get back on the project.

Sorry to hear of your Accident.  Glad to hear that you are back to being able to do things, Hope that all is as good as it was before.