By Curtis B 3523 Date 2013-01-07 17:24
Hoping someone here can help-I have a Dune buggy from 1970 doner I am rebuilding.
Will be using for street & mild offroad in the desert (OK occasionally going nuts!)
The Tranny is leaking-so I figure now would be a good time for rebuild-any suggestions? Gearing? Beefing up?
I plan on 31" tires in the back (clearance and look)
Engine is now a 1914 with dual heads, Single Weber Carb (040 or 044)
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2013-01-07 17:33
Are you experienced in rebuilding trannys?
If not you might be better served with a rancho tranny.
By Curtis B 3523 Date 2013-01-07 17:43
Oops-Didnt make myself clear-I am looking to have the Tranny rebuilt by one of the following:
1. local Transmission rebuilder (they would presumably keep it totally stock)
2. purchase a rebuilt stock tranny
3. purchase a "freeway flyer" Tranny
4. Order rebuilt tranny with specific gear/gear ratios
5. Order one of the above with "beefed up" components
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2013-01-07 19:22
Rancho is always a great option. They are very helpful. You can call and they will walk you through what you need.
It really depends on your budget, whats important to you (reliability vs cost, down time vs reliability, etc) and resources in your area.
In all my projects I have never had to rebuild a tranny. I have drained them, installed a new input seal, and run them. If your budget is tight you might try that. They are certainly easy to swap out.
If money is not an issue then Rancho or some other hi-po builder. They have the tools and the experience to build it right.
By andrew s 1965 Date 2013-01-07 19:29
question. How do you get the input seal out?
i am rebuilding a buggy now (66) and input seal is leaking.
I spend a few minutes trying to pull out with a little pic i have but really stuck in there so i gave up for now.
Messing with it yesteday
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2013-01-07 20:38
I beat the middle part of it out with a hammer and screw driver......
Seriously. You need to destroy it. Obviously be very careful to not damage the case of the input shaft though. Break up the middle and you can then yank it out with some pliers.
I always replace that seal on any of my builds. For a couple of bucks its cheap insurance.
By andrew s 1965 Date 2013-01-07 20:57
i was thinking about that but was worried i might mess up.
looks like that will be what i do.
How about the output seal?
is that recomended too? this seems like a good bit of work to do as well with the drive shaft there
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2013-01-07 21:12
Swing or IRS? I have never needed to replace either.
By andrew s 1965 Date 2013-01-07 21:34
Swing from 1966 bug.
local auto part store said they had both. did not know if i should think about other end.
I know mine leaks at input and i was doing that now while everything is apart.
not sure if it leaks at other end
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2013-01-07 23:54
By the "other end" you mean where the shift rod attaches? The nose cone seal?
I have never seen one leak and I have never replaced one personally.
By andrew s 1965 Date 2013-01-08 00:17
yeah and the call it the out put seal
i have a ton of other things to do so i rather not add this seal to my list
i may just see what hapens when done
By Brad H 1498 Date 2013-01-08 01:05 Edited 2013-01-08 01:07
A few points.
DO NOT get a freeway flyer with 31" tall rear tires. You will be grossly over geared and your car will be an absolute DOG. You will also have problems with engine cooling as the rpms will be so low you won't be turning the fan fast enough. IF you are getting a custom tranny built talk to the builder and tell him your tire size engine size, car weight and what you want to do with the car.
The shift rod seal Can leak I have replaced many, BUT if it is leaking alos replace the brass bushing behind it. IT wears out and takes out the seal becasue the rod pushes the seal lip around.
A $15 seal puller is a great investment and saves the risk of damaging the case beating the seal out. I have one I ground down to fit in there. If you are stuck without tools I have used a big wood screw and run it into the seal and pulled it out with vise grips. This got me home from the middle of no where.
By andrew s 1965 Date 2013-01-08 02:10
wood screws in the seal???
good idea. i like that!!!
By Curtis B 3523 Date 2013-01-08 20:55
Ok-IF I have the Tranny replaced-would you guys recommend the upgrade for Aluminum Side cover, Super Differentials and "close in 3rd & 4th gear"?
1914, single webber Carb (will be a 40 or 44) engle 110, dual port 044 heads
street, offroad, occasional "go for the gold" jump
By Brad H 1498 Date 2013-01-08 21:39
Superdiffs have a problem of staving the side gears for lubrication and burning up the diff if they are used on long trips. If it's just a play toy it wouldn't be a bad idea with big tires. the engine isn't so powerful as to warrant it but the big tires and occasional clutch drop might. Aluminum side covers wouldn't hurt but I don't think you would need them, maybe if you had a big motor with lots of torque. If you are keeping the tall tires a closer ratio 3/4 would be a good idea.
Powered by mwForum 2.10.2 © 1999-2007 Markus Wichitill