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By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-16 16:20
Rick, I just made a temp. gas line with a fuel guage, The guy had it set for 7.5 psi. Now my question is do you think that I damaged the weber? I set the psi @ 3.0 to 3.2.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-16 22:36
can anyone give me direction on the best way to run the fuel line up on the back of the tin also theres a picture of an extra dune buggy hood the doesnt fit mine as well as a few other projects pictures are attached cause i know you guys like them

Thanks jim s

By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-17 16:31
There is no "best way" just make sure they are routed away from the fan. I ran mine along the top of the case, under the chimney for the oil cooler and secured everything with rubber coated adell clamps. They Webers will be OK they just spurt fuel everywhere when the pressure is too high but no internal damage should have happened. The 34mm's will work fine for your 1600. What are the carbs? They look like ancient sand cast Webers!

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-17 22:00
Brad, Thanks alot. Those carbs are Brevettato 48 IDA 1F main jet is a 180 /210 They came with the sand rail from a guy that I painted his jeep. It came with 2 vw bus trannies some chrome tin,12v alt. 2 electronic dist. And the motor is suppose to be balanced. but when I recieved it the heads & jugs were off. It has one bad head. In the old days that sand rail was called superman and raced in atlanta Ga.
I have the pistons &jugs but I could not tell any thing about them. Should there be a mark or something on them.

Jim S
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-18 18:42
There should be a stamp on the piston top telling you the size. If you can't find it use a micrometer and meaure the barrel ID.  The carbs are cool, never heard of Brevattato though.

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-18 22:58
The number on the piston is MAHLE 92P17

jim s
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-19 01:52
can anybody tell me what these numbers mean. This card was given to me with the dune buggy

jim s

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By Sandman 2049 Date 2010-05-19 02:03
bearing sizes, if I was rebuilding it I would have everything measured again just incase that was an old card from a previous build.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-19 02:13
Thanks a lot but i"m not going to rebuild it at this time because it runs so good. I thought maybe it would help me get the information what I need for a set of carbs or just one carb. It now has a weber progressive on it. I dont feel to good about the one thats on it now.

Thanks again
  Jim S
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-19 14:28
You have 92mm pistons if it's a stock crank it'll make 1835cc. The case is cut 1st over, first thrust. GOOD. the rest I'm not sure. I hoppe the 26cc doesn't refer to combustion chamber size!!!!! I have a simgle 44mm Weber that has done great service on my old 1776. If you are interested PM me. I sold the motor :-( and the new owner is putting dual carbs on it because it doesn't fit under the lid of our buggies. I have a new kit to put into the carb and a new throttle cable will be needed.

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-19 16:21
Brad would the weber be to big for my 1641? the 92mm pistons are for another motor that came with the sand rail the card with the numbers on it is for my 1641 thats in my buggy, then someone gave me another 1600 dual port and thats the one in the picture.
someone told me when you start playing with bug/buggy they multiply just the way bugs do. ( I think they were right)

thanx jim s
If the 44mm weber will work on my 1641 I may be intrested.
By Allison Daytona Ken Date 2010-05-19 22:00
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-20 00:52
You might have to jet it down a bit for the 1641 but it would work if there is any kind of cam in it, if not it would be like putting a 45 gallon drum on a funnel. I'm also selling a pair of Kadrons for the guy that bought my motor. I don't know anything about them and haven't seen them run, but they are all there. We put them on Al's motor and were going to use them on his buggy. I'm going to pull the tops off and see what they're like. I have a carb tank at work so will probably clean them up like I should have done before we put them on.

They came from the guy he bought the buggy from, but the motor was blown and in boxes. I've never seen a motor so badly butchered in my life, the guy who rebuilt it for Colin (previous owner) is scum, and Colin just bought a good used complete motor and the carbs went in a box into his basement.

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-21 02:40
well its another weekend, working for the city we only work 4 days a week so 3 day weekends are nice. I'm still working on the fuel system, I started with 1/4" fuel line. would I be safe keeping that size if I went with dual carbs?Also the steel line in the tunnel I thought about putting it inside a long rubber gas line for protection. Has any one done that or is that not a good idea? I'm just not sure if I should replace the weber progressive that i had rebuilt once, Or should i send it out to someone else. I just dont want to keep spending money on what may be a dead horse. Brad what do you want for the set of kardons and would you rebuild them, what other parts would i need?
thanx jim s

there is a set of 34mm on samba for 240.00
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-21 12:56 Edited 2010-05-21 13:05
1/4" line is plenty for the dual carbs. If your planning on running it in the tunnel be sure you secure it in several places along the way. Just letting it bounce around in there is a recipe for disaster. If well secured there is no reason to use rubber hose. You will need something (and rubber hose is fine) to protect the hose where it enters and exits the pan.

Again...do not just run the hose in the tunnel without securing it in 2-3 places minimum.

Looks like a decent set of Kads here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kadron-Solex-Duel-Carburetor-Set-Complete-VW-Bug-Beetle-/320535727120?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa16b0c10
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-21 16:58
Jeffrey, thanks for the tip, I went ahead and purchased them I"ll be sure to let you know how they work.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-23 21:45
jeffrey, i"m going to order that wiring harness tomorrow does it come with instructions or do you have some that you could scan?
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-23 23:13
It comes with instructions...but you will have alot of questions. I think I did a thread somewhere...I will look for it.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-23 23:29
thanx jim s groveland fl.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-27 01:01
Well guys I have another question my gas tank I want to move the filler neck neck to the center of the tank but I dont want to interfear with the sending unit. then what type of welding is done mig, tig Then where do i take itto get the work done abody shop,motor shop, or a radiator shop. my tank is from a 66 bug I think I will post a picture. maybe I need to order one. but do they make them with the fill in the middle?

thanks jim s

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By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-05-27 03:43
Hey Jim. No one makes a tank with the fill in the middle because there is no standard location front to rear.

Here is what I would recommend. Buy a new tank for two reasons. 1) Working on a tank that has had fuel in it before will severely limit the number of shops/locations willing to put a torch to it. 2) it would suck to spend money to have your tank modified only to find out it becomes a leaker from age shortly afterward. (Yes they can be coated inside as a repair, but you would still have to tear the buggy apart to get that done, and the cost involved would be as much as a new tank anyway.

Stick welding, mig (wire-feed) welding, or tig (nice looking joints when done properly) are all options. Regardless of the method used, you need to think about filler neck elevation. How high above the surface of the tank will the neck go? Will it protrude above the hood or will it be flush? Will the neck and cap be recessed and hidden behind a magnetic catch type flip door?

Once you know what style you want, it will be easier to figure out the height. A word of caution though... Don't let the filler neck go into the tank. You will want to let the filler neck go into the tank to get the height right, but you want to mark the neck and trim it just below your mark. If you simply let the neck go into the tank, you will never be able to fill it completely with fuel, and you'll be stopping for gas sooner then you should be.

I recommend cutting the hole in your hood sized to the style you want to go with. You will want to mount the tank in place with the fasteners, install the hood and then scribe around the neck in order to get good positioning.

I recommend since you are not welding it yourself to have the shop TACK the neck only. This way you can do a trial fit and see about its location before it is welded up solid.

(I haven't ever tried fitting a tank with the neck relocated and trying to cut the hood to match the filler neck. Besides, you want it to be centered on the hood anyway, so make the neck fit the hole in the hood.

Good luck! It's a long slow process to get it right, but it is worth it.

Jay
By ManxRob Date 2010-05-27 05:01
I took my used tank to a radiator shop to cut off the old filler, pug the hole, and relocate it to the new location. They cleaned & de-rusted the tank in their soup vat, and brazed instead of welded.

4 years ago and no problems.

Rob
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-27 12:42
Well someone does make a center fill tank. Look here:

http://www.texasbuggys.com/Product%20Listing.htm
By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-05-27 18:28
SHOOT. That's the SECOND time I've been burned by that one. I can't believe I didn't remember that this time. Dang Texas Buggy club messing with my mind! LOL

Again, I stand corrected. Thanks Jeffrey.

Jay
By Bryan A 229 Date 2010-05-28 00:09
The 'seizing ball-joints' issue when used on lowered beams is not due to tight internal tolerances; it's due to the arc of travel in the stock ride height ball-joints having insufficient travel range... The lowered ball-joints have an increased 'angularity' range designed into the joint, specifically for lowered cars -

bnc
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-28 21:34
You're correct on the construction of the lowered balljoints, HOWEVER, I recomend using them even on stock height beams because the regular ones bind because of the tolerances being to close internally. EVERYONE, Moog, white box, Chinese, "German", ball joints are all having the same problem. That's why I recommended them.

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-29 16:22
The kads came in yesterday, now I can start on the fuel system. I had to back up because I had a leak in the brake line. I think its fixed . Will the carbs be easy to install without the instructions? I found some chrome tin and fan shroud also chrome in my garage along with a eletronic dist. and a alt. I dont know if I should use it or not.
Now when it comes to the paint part of the build I think that I can handle it and I wont ask a lot of questions
You guys are a great help, With out the DBA I may have done away with my little car.

Thanks again Jim S
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-29 17:41
"I found some chrome tin and fan shroud also chrome in my garage along with a eletronic dist. and a alt. I dont know if I should use it or not."

Yes! use them.

Use paper gaskets to install the kads...not the metal ones.

Read AJ Simms website on Kads.

Set them the way he says.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-29 22:47
hey guys can anyone tell me if a steering column from a 85 camaro will work on a dune buggy? I seen one in my friends garage and I ask about it, He said that I could have it. It has the wiper switch, Key switch, and headlite dimmer switch with all the wires and plugs.

Thanks Jim S
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-30 05:23
Anything can be made to work.

How much time, hassle & money do you want to exert?
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-03 09:32
Well i put in the electronic dist. It has 2 wires red/black is the red hot and the black ground? and do they go to the coil? this weekend I should ba able to start the motor with its new toys Does anyone have a picture of how to wire an engine for a test fire, then I will try to adjust the carbs as per simms. also set the timing. at this point of the build I want to cross the T's and dot the I's. then I will start the paint work now I can do that. then its on to wiring
thanx Jim S
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-03 13:12
yes...the black goes to the negative and the red to the positive side of the coil. DO NOT cross them...even for a second and you will fry your module. Don't ask how I know. really...even a fraction of a second of cross wiring and its gone. I would wait until the last connection before I hooked it up.

Wiring to test run is basically simple.

1. Ground battery (-) to frame. I usually attach the cable from the neg terminal on the battery to a starter bolt.
2. Positive (+) cable from battery to large lug on starter.
3. Jumper wire from (+) side of battery to simple toggle (be sure it is isolated from toughing any grounds. You can lay it on a towel, out it in a plastic container...anything. Just don't let the terminals tough the chassis). From other terminal on toggle to the (+) side of the coil.
4. Wires from electronic ignition to coil as described above.

I then use a large screwdriver (holding the handle and not the shaft) to jump the large terminal on the starter and the small tab on the solenoid. This will kick over the starter.

So, flip the toggle and jump the starter. To shut off, flip the toggle off.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-05 02:47
well today went pretty well. I was able to get the buggy to start and idle for the first time since I've had it. Its not perfect but I think I'm in the right direction. I may have to find someone to fine tune the carbs. so tomorrow i will install the axels.
Also I will hook up the clutch cable Tell me is it better to cut the cable or loop it and use a cable clamp?

Thanks alot Jim S
                                                                 
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-05 15:05
Best way is to get a custom cable from Locash Racing.

If you loop then there is no adjustability. If you cut, you have adjustability but the empi ones stink.

I have also heard of people using these:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=52132&familyName=Suncor+316+SS+Quick+Attach+Stud+Swage+Fitting

With great success.

My order of preference:
1. LoCash Racing cable
2. Stud Swage
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-06 02:29
Today I ordered the boots for the axels, I have to clean all my junk off of the pan then do a couple small things and then start the body, My wife said that she likes the color red for the buggy, I was going to make it blue. Now that being said guess what color I"ll paint it. I will post a few pictures of whats done so far, Sorry for the bad shots I will get some better ones later.

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By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-06 19:18
HELP...... Can anybody tell me what to do for seats that will fit in the buggy and still have the the track to slide the seat to fit the driver? I have a flat floor pan, The reason I ask is that I want to the swap meet today and found a set of seats from a small chevy but when I did a test fit they were to wide.

Thanks
Jim S
By David L 2084 Date 2010-06-06 19:30
I have found that seats from a Geo tracker will work.  You have to reconfigure the tracks which requires cutting and re-welding, but I have been very pleased with mine.  They are not too wide and I have about 5 inches of travel front to back. 

Dave L
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-07 00:38
Seats from a Factory Five Cobra kit:



The low back seats from their kits would work well to...and be low and sleek. They often pop up for $200 or so a pair on their forums.

Or some nice Corbeau Classics....they have nice headrests.

By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-06-08 16:21
I had Corbeau Classics in my bugy when I first built it years ago, great seats, comfortable and great support. Wish I never would have sold them.

brad
By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-06-10 03:37
I have the Corbeau Classics in my buggy and I wouldn't recommend them. They need to be about 3/4" wider if you ask me.... but I'm a 6' 235# guy. They are puffy though. Much better then stock fiberglass seats.

Jay
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-12 00:01
this weekend i will work on the axles. I ordered new boots and they came in today my question is the old axles don't have a clamp around the small end of the boot is it necessary?

Thanks alot
Jim
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-12 02:38
Nope..They are a nice tight fit (I am assuming IRS)
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-13 23:59
Well the weekend is about over and I cant say that I made any progress on my buggy, The axels were a problem for someone that has never done that before. I did not get them done. then after all day my wife said what does it cost for new ones? Well to make a long story short the auto parts said that I could get a new set for $36.00 ea. plus a core charge. So the wife said to order them. (bless her heart) Thats with the city discount.
Maybe one day I will be able to post a picture of it finished.
Thanks
Jim S
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-14 00:46
Hey guys I forgot to ask what has to be done to change from generator to alt.? Also how do you tell if the alt has a built in voltage regulator?
Thanks
Jim S
Remember I have not started to wire the buggy as of this time. If I can save from running extra wire that would be a good thing.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-06-14 16:32
Wiring an alternator is dead simple. One BIG wire (8-10 AWG) from the alternator to the battery cable post on the starter and one wire from the warning light to the small terminal on the alternator. I'm pretty sure all the new alternators are internally regulated. And you HAVE to have a WORKING warning light in series with the wire going to the alterntor or else it won't charge.

brad
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-14 16:54
Brad is right. You need a warning light...and NOT a LED..it won't draw enough.

Wiring for the indicator light is simple...yet many people have a mental block on it.

To wire your indicator light:

1. Run a wire from the "run" terminal on your ignition switch to one lead on the lamp
2. Run a wire from the tab on the alternator to the other lamp lead.

Thats it. When the alternator is not spinning the tab on the alternator will produce a neg charge, completing the circuit at the lamp. However, once you run the engine to about 2000rpm the alternator windings will "excite" causing that tab to have a positive charge. With two positives, the lamp cannot light.

Alternator conversion kits are available. They come with the correct backing plates, stand, hold down, and alternator. Check out CIP1 for a good price and no shipping.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-19 01:49
Here is a couple of pictures. I have the axels in finally it only took 2 weekends I am almost to a rolling chassis. I am just gonna keep plugging away than I can start the body. In one of the pictures I didn't know but a bird built a next in my garage and was feeding 3 babies. I didn't have the heart to take away the birds nest.

I am still working on the gnerator/alternator swap I have an alternator and some miscellaneous parts but I don't have the socket to remove the fan can someone tell me what size it is so that I can go get it?

Thanks
Jim

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By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-06-19 05:43
The socket for the fan is 36mm just like the one you'll need to take your rear drums off and the flywheel also. I use an LED light for my warning lights but they are multi element side marker trailer lights so they have more draw than a single element LED. They also are way more visible than a small light in a buggy with no roof and the sun beating down on you.

brad
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-06-19 14:21
Thanks a lot Brad,
question, will the pully and fan from a generator fit the alt.? I went out this morning to get a 36mm socket with no luck in Groveland. The next thing is to send out the wife, lol

thanks a lot
Jim S
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-06-19 16:00
Yes...fan will fit. Different backing plates and stand though.
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