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By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-03 12:28
Hi guys after recovering from the liver transplant I am starting to get back going again on my buggy. Now I am ready to do ball question is my buggy has a 2.5 inch drop spindles with disk brakes should I use stock ball joints or the longer ones? also the same question would be for the shocks.

Thanks alot
Jim S
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-03 14:48
I would use the lowered ball joints, ONLY BECAUSE, they are having problems with everyones stock ball joints seizing up once installed because the internal tolerances are too tight. The lowered ones are built to have more travel so are a little loser. Stock shocks will be fine, one of the advantages of dropped spindles is nothing on the rest of the suspension moves.

Happy Wrenching

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-05 17:19
thanks brad, I found the lowered ball joints in orlando, now back to the shocks the auto parts here in town has to order them but i can order a set of coil overs for the same price. what i need to ask is will that be to much shock with the lowered buggy. maybe you know a better place to get them, I'm looking at $140.00 from mid america.
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-05 18:16
Stock, oil filled shocks are your best bet. Coil overs will rattle your teeth on the road.

For front shocks the cheaper the better...and avoid gas shocks as well. Oil filled is the way to go.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-05 18:36 Edited 2010-04-06 01:47
Jeffery's right, the heaviest shock I put in was a KYB GR-2 gas, a light pressured shock, but for street driving a stock oil shock will work fine. I'm just using standard EMPI oil shocks in the front of my buggy. MAM should be able to get you those and they're cheap.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-05 23:38
Thanks alot guys i will keep you posted on my progress and let me give you a picture of my starting project


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By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-06 01:49
Looks like a good starting project. Are the wheels stock VW 4 bolt pattern? How big are they? Let me know if you want to sell them I may be interested.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-07 02:21
i made contact with the previous owner and he said yes they are stock VW 4 bolt pattern wheel. I will try to check the size of them in the next day or so. As far as selling them i cant at this time because i dont have anything else to put on the project car.

Whats your opinion on this purchase i am doing tomorrow. its a ball joint front beam complete with steering box linkage and brakes for $100.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-07 02:49
If it's a good rust free beam take the beam and RUN!!! LOL Are you buying it because it has good ball joints? To be honest with you , I can't afford to buy wheels right now either :-), just thought I'd let you know in case somewhere down the road you want to part with them.

$100 for a good beam is a good deal.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-07 10:25
Brad no i'm not getting the beam for the ball joints, I want it because it will be easy for me to restor out of the buggy that way i dont have to keep my buggy outside on jack stands. Also my 15 year old son has a sand rail that we want to make street legal i may need some parts
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-08 15:44
Here is a picture of my $100 front beam.

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By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-08 17:40
Looks good. Those tabs for a tow bar maybe?
By Tom & Kathleen I 639 Date 2010-04-08 20:25
Probably a bumper mount.  Tom
Tom & Kathleen Manxter #16, Kick-Out SS #16 & FiberFab Buggy
Manx Club #1030, CVA, RBC, SCCA
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-08 23:09
Good find. Probe around the top of the shock towers by the rubber shock spacer and also between the beams and the bottom of the shock tower with a screw driver to check for soft rust spots. Beam looks to be in good shape though.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-16 02:47
well the front beam is solid, I don't know what the two tabs in the front are for. I should finish the front end this weekend then go to wiring can some one help me with a good harness, Like what kind should i get. And who has the best buy? Also i want to take out the gas tank and replace it with a tank under the hood. the tank to be removed is in the back seat.
By Allison Daytona Ken Date 2010-04-16 04:15
check out  " rebel wire " they now have a harness made specifically for vw, about 180 to 190 dollors,  Ken.........
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-16 13:00
Stay away from the Empi style harnesses. They are garbage.

I have used this style harness with good success on a couple of projects.

There is one minor modification that makes it work a little better, and you do need to run your own grounds, but overall its pretty straightforward and functional. If your planning high end stereo or lighting you may need more, but on a standard buggy I have two circuits left over (1 constant hot & 1 keyed hot...with the modification).

I also use some relays for the headlight, wipers, horn...and something else that I am drawing a blank on right now. I also use terminal strips to help with the grounds and for light distribution. Many of these things are done because I like to use clean, simple toggle switches. If you plan on using lots of different styles of switches they may not be needed.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-16 14:58
Thanks alot Jeffrey, I will try that harness. Wish me luck. another question, my project buggy has disc brakes but it has never had the brake lines installed, I think that I have all the parts, I just need a diagrahm.

  Thanks Jim S
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-16 15:47
Here are a couple pics of my Avenger with 4 wheel discs. It does not use the VW master cylinder so it is slightly different, but you can get the idea. Ignore those two lines sticking straight up in the front end picture. Those are lines for the rear brakes and hydraulic clutch.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-17 16:51
Jeffrey thanks for the pictures will be a big help, I see after looking at so many pictures some front ends use the sway bar and some dont. I thought it might be the difference between ball joints and link pin, but I've seen pictures of both.
By Hank M 950 Date 2010-04-17 22:24
Ken ,
Are you referring to the 8 circuit harness at Rebel wire? I can't seam to find a specific VW harness on thier wen site
By Allison Daytona Ken Date 2010-04-18 00:57
just call them I bought the 135 dollor basic harness about 3 weeks ago, they told me at that time that they now have one desigined specificaly for rear engine bugs, it is there newest product and priced around 180 ti 190, good harness and heck of a lot cheaoer than painless or ez wire,       Ken............
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-18 14:56
Most people ditch the sway bars. You really don't need them given th weight of the buggy.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-23 21:45
It's me guys I gotta ask the pros another question the ball joints on my project went pretty good i can now install the speedoo cable. Now im attepmting the brakes, i purchased the steel brakeline kit which i think will work fine. As i mentioned before I'm running 4 wheel disc brakes. If you'll look at the attached photo of my master cylinder what i need to know is where all the lines plug in iunderstand one line goes to the rear and tees off and i would assume that it would be put into one of the holes on the rear of the master cylinder. Then i would assume that the front lines go into the front of the master cylinder individually. If i am correct then what would go into the other holes. Don't mind the dirt in the pictures as i have not clean or painted the parts yet.

thanks, jim s

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By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-24 00:36 Edited 2010-04-24 00:48
The top 2 front holes on the master (yellow arrows) are for the front brake lines, the top rear hole (orange?) is for the rear brake line, the bottom 2 holes (blues), front and back are for the brake light switches. VW used 2 in case one failed or there was a brake fluid leak somewhere in that circuit tht didn't allow enough pressure to push the contacts together in the switch.

As I've said before IF you are using ALL NEW brake hydraulics you might want to consider using DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid. It doesn't absorb water like regular brake fluid and when a car sits for periods of time (Monday to Friday like mine and all winter) it will become waterlogged decreasing brake performance AND rusting metal brake parts like wheel and master cylinders and lines.


By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-24 01:32
thanks brad, I will take your advice on the brake fluid. Also am i gonna need any pressure devices in the brake lines or proportioning valves. Thanks again for all your help, this site is great.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-24 04:17 Edited 2010-04-24 04:20
Are you doing rear disks too? Yes your going to want to put a bias valve in your front brakes as the front is so light and you will have problems with lock up. When I did mine, I just used a single line out of the master for the front brake circuit, I ran that to an adjustable bias valve and from there to a "T" fitting (I used one from the rear brakes circuit), from the "T" ran the lines out to the rubber or stainless hoses

The first picture shows my shifter box with the brake lock (yellow) and proportioning valve (blue) mounted on either side. The lines came in and went out through the center spine of the chassis. The second photo shows the "T" mounted on the firewall then going to the hoses at the wheels.

To plug the unused ports on the master, I took some old brake lines and cut the ends of them off, keeping the line inside the threaded fitting, I then welded the hex ends closed, ground them flush, wire wheeled them clean and installed them. I run on the street with the front bias valve closed all the way, about  a 50% reduction in pressure, but open it up about half way when I race with the slicks. One more thing, if you are going to run just one switch put it on the rear circuit (closest to pedals) as this one pressurizes first and will turn on the lights quicker.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-04-26 01:55
I understand the bias valve , but it looks like the same line also does the brake lock, or is there another line for the brake lock?
The brake line kit that I picked up does not work so well with the all of the pieces being pre made, So this week I will pick up some brake line stock material bend and cut, So I guess I''ll buy a bubble flair tool.
By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-04-26 03:26
No need for a tool. Any local NAPA will have sections pre-cut and flared for you.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-26 14:05
No need for the hydraulic lock. Originally I put it in to help in "warming" the rear tires, but as it turns out the front of the car is too light and I just end up pushing the locked tires down the street. But it is a great help to me when it comes time to change tires at autocross events. No more chasing holes trying to get the wheel bolts in. You could also just mount the bias valve under the front of the car and avoid a bunch of extra tubing. I like mine inside as it makes it easier to adjust between street and track and I can also tailor it for changing grip on course.

Make sure you get a tool that does ISO flares for the factory connections, but most brake adapters, like the ones on the bias valves use an American double flare so you'll need the kit to do those also.

By Allison Daytona Ken Date 2010-04-26 23:06
more brakes
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-04-27 00:08
I forgot to tell you that, yes, I have the bias valve and lock in the same loop. It comes from the master, to the bias valve, around the shifter to the lock, and then to the "T" going to both front wheels

Them's the brakes lol

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-01 17:11
I have a gas tank that needs to be cleaned and  i would like to line it, Can anyone tell me the name of the matieial used for that?
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-06 03:07
Good evening, I"m was looking for an old post about brake lines. someone said that napa would have a fitting to convert from iso bubble flair to double flair, My question would be is there a fitting to go from double flair to iso bubble flair. It may sound strange but the napa here in groveland, fl. does not have anything in fact i showed them a piece of brake line with the bubble flair to see if i could get some and they said that they never seen anything like it.
I feel sorry for them.
thanks jim s
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-06 05:33
Hi Jim. Check around for what kind of tank liner to use make SURE it is compatible with blended gas as the old stuff isn't and will dissolve in methanol blended gasoline. I've never heard of an adapter fitting, you may want to invest in a SAE flare kit, they're relatively inexpensive or get the lines bent up and have the ends flared that you need at a shop, most automotive shops have a flare kit kicking around and if you don't want to buy a kit may be an alternative.

By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-06 13:35
CB Performance has some adapters. Not sure what you need.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-07 21:42
Jeffrey, maybe you or someone can help me, I"ve tried 2 types of brake pedal return springs the first one was way out of the ballpark but the second one is what looks to me like puts the pedal to far forward where i think the pedal should be vertical, then when i unbolt the pedals and loosen the spring it does not touch the pedal.
Jim S

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By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-07 22:26
Couple things.

Do you have a stop on the floor? You need one. That will set your pedal angle.

Secondly, to get more tension try pulling the spring end under one more time and have it come out the front. That should give extra tension.
By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-05-08 10:15 Edited 2010-05-08 10:30
Jeffrey is on the money. You are wanting a stop on the bottom of the floor pan. There are little tangs on the bottom of the clutch and brake pedals. The spring will want to send the brake pedal toward your knee, but the adjustable stop on the floor is what adjusts the brake and clutch pedal angle.


Didn't have a good shot from the side, but I had an OK one fromt he top. At least it gives you an idea.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-08 11:03
Thanx a lot, I think I can work with that, I just might be able to finish the brake system this weekend.
Then I will be going to start the fuel system. The main question is the steel fuel line that goes from the tunnel area up to the engine. the guy that had the buggy before me had a round tank in the back seat and I wanted a tank under the hood. the other guy had some pre-formed gas line and the rubber conections were rite in line with the clutch and gas cables, all I could see was FIRE. Also it has an electric fuel pump w/regulator I want to move that to the front. I have a fuel pressure guage to install as well.
Look at me Ineed to finish the brakes and jumping into the fuel, I will post pic. later

Jim S
By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-05-08 14:56
Jim, that's alright... you've on the right track thinking ahead like that. I've heard of people using tubing in the tunnel so its one line from front to back with no seam in the tunnel. There is an access plate in the front of the frame head that you can use to slide the fuel line back. I ran lines under the pan. Not the best or recommended. If I ever hit something in the road, I might lose all the fuel I have before I know it. I always have to be careful where I jack the car up or where I place jack stands, but it was quick and easy and at the time, I was on a schedule a long way from home.

I ment to change it later on, but it hasn't broken yet, so why fix what isn't broken right? :-)

By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-09 01:36 Edited 2010-05-14 14:41
Production cars have them on the inside of the frame rails. Never any worries about them. Plus with fuel injection they are running much more psi then a stock set up. Really...unless your offroading the chances of any catastrophic fuel line rupture are so small.

I run them under my pan with my Manx, and am running them under my Avenger along with the rear brake lines and hydraulic clutch lines.

In a way I would rather have them under the pan then in the pan where a pinhole leak can flood the tunnel.
By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-13 23:18
well guys i think my brakes went well, this weekend i plan on starting on the fuel system, i have an electric fuel pump, should i run 1/4 " fuel line? also my parts guy in orlando said that a weber 2 barrel progressive carb. is very hard to rebuild, my problem is that i had someone rebuild it once now it wont idle and gas comes out the top (not a lot) Im thinking that i may need to replace it, If so what kind. now guys remember i work for the city of Groveland so what Im tryin to say is that i dont make a lot of money. Again thanks for all your help. remember I have those rear brake linesthat I posted on the dune buggy classified, there free just pay postage. i just need a address.
thanx again jim s
By Jay H (X-20) (ManxVair CC) Date 2010-05-14 01:09
if gas is coming out the top is it possible that the bowl is overfilling? maybe a little dirt in the needle seat or possibly a bad float? I'm no carb guy. I just know the basics.

By Rick M 333 Date 2010-05-14 12:54
Could be a stuck float, but my money is on the electric fuel pump throwing too much pressure. If you don't have a pressure regulator for the carb, get one now. Weber's don't like more than 3psi at the seat.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-14 14:15
If it was just "rebuilt" I'm guessing the float is not adjusted right. But like Jay said measure your pump pressure. The progressive Weber when set up right (the hard part, OK damn near impossible part) works OK. If you want a good carb set up go with either some dual single 40mm Kadrons or a  single 40mm EMPI/Weber. I'm partial to the single 40 myself. Then on the other hand if you are going to eventually put some more performance in it later on go with a set of dual 40's or 44's.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-15 02:35
Brad, Do you think that 40mm carbs/carb would be a little large for a 1641? someware I have the cam size from the po. my parts guy said that shuld look into a set of empi dual epc34 or a 34 /36 2 barrel. Can you give me a part number on the 40mms that you are talking about? Myself I dont have a clue of what to do. I have to take the advice from the DBA Becaues you guys come up with some of the best advice/photos

By Jeffrey P 655 Date 2010-05-15 13:24
A nice set of Kadrons would be good. Check The Samba and search the classifieds for Kadrons or Webers. Lots of hits. Look for real clean ones.
By Brad H 1498 Date 2010-05-15 14:13
A pair of 40's might be stretching it a bit, but you could choke them down to work. Besides cam size you also need the heads to flow for the carbs to work. A single EMPI 40 HPMX would be good as would the Kadrons  or 34mm twins. I hate progressives (sorry to all who have them). It's funny I just listed a set of Kadrons for sale this morning, I inherited them with a motor I took on trade for my old 1776. Haven't heard them run or know how they work so won't try to sell them to you. They were on a 1600.

By jim s 1837 Date 2010-05-16 06:17
all you guys are a big help, I looked on samba and found some items that i could possibly use. I went on google and put in empi 43-7411 it came up with dual 34mm carbs, Would someone look and tell me if it looks ok.
that seems to be a good price.
thanx again Jim S
maybe one day I"ll finish my little baby.
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