Very Nice Jim. Did you ever figure out what was causing the problem with your engine?

brad

I removed the head for the 3&4 cylinders and there was a bunch of carbon and goop that had hardened where the piston had rested for the last 2 years or so and would not allow to go past that point. I simply removed the cylinders and scraped it off of both the piston and cylinder, cleaned and put back together. Everything is working fine now.

It looks a lot better now Jim!

The buggy is ready to bring home but will have to wait until Sunday to do so. But the engine is finished and ready to go on. Yippie!!!! I pick up some stainless steel screen tomorrow to make a cover for the Type III Fan Shroud.

I put the screen on tonight. I just need to get a 32" hose clamp or something else to hold it in place. I almost like it better without the screen, but feel safer with it, especially with little ones around.

I kinda like the screen, gives it kind of an industrial, dangerous look. Engine looks great. Always had a soft spot for that T3 cooling system I had mine all painted and detailed like yours, then I stuffed it into my 67 squareback and you couldn't see any of it.

brad

I brought the buggy home on Sunday night and my buddy did a fantastic job on the wiring as well as shortening the e-brake handle, steering post support and fender supports. Thanks Steve! Next... Installing completed engine, do some final wiring of the engine, re-checking nuts and bold and trying to fire this baby up.

The buggy build is on hold and I most likely won't do much with her until the first of the year. We had to move my mom to an assisted living facility. Now we are going through all of her and my late dad's things and either take to her new place and disperse what else we want to keep among us sibs. Then have an estate sale and then list our home that we all were raised in and enjoyed for the last 50 years. That sucks, but assisted living isn't cheap! Then! My youngest is getting married in December and finally, Big Brown will keep me busy as heck for the next two months, which won't leave me a whole lot of time for the Super T. That's life!!

Ken and Brad,
Thanks for the kind words! Moms health is improving but we need to downsize to help curve the cost.
Ken, are you sure that's not a Kellison Super T? It looks identical to mine, minus the nose and tailgate, which both are removable. Do you have a better shot of the dash, especially the passenger side?

Well I finally got back to work on the Super T. It's about stinkin time! I installed the shortened e-brake handle, shortened the cables and installed boot. Of course I screwed up and trimmed too much carpet!!

I haven't worked on the buggy, but did tune in here every night to see what's going on at DBA.

Looks great Jim. Looks like you had more success with the early style handle than I did. I tried but the cables wouldn't go tight against the handle with that style shortener so I had to use a late "balance beam" style handle.
Hope things are getting back on track for you. Happy New Year.

Brad

Hi Jim , nice job very neat and clean looking, as Brad said I hope everything is going well.     Ken.......     

where did you get the liner for your buggy i like that idea alot never seen that though i am new to this

Joe, most of your T-Bucket style dune buggies are two piece (Liner and body) where as your Manx style are a single piece body. Speaking of T-Buckets, I see the gal from Tennesee who found all of the buggy molds on her property has a Kellison Super T and Sandpiper Pickup clones for sale on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250561559689&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250561529951&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

no i have a pickup style dune buggy i think it is a hill enginering or kellison sand piper that is why i was wondering about the part

Well, the engine is almost in! I spent the last two evenings grinding out the 6 volt trans-axle so that the 12 volt engine will fit. As you can see, it is very close. In the morning I'll pull the engine and clean up any high spots and get this bad boy together! I did notice two tiny spots of gear oil on the rear rims, so I'll pull the rear wheels off and hopefully just have to tighten a few bolts, hopefully! There are also two spots about the size of a nickle directly below where the inside of the swing axle boots attach to the trans-axle. I guess thats not too bad considering the buggy has been sitting in the same spot for almost four months. I can already tell that when I'm finished there will still be a lot of little things that will have to be fine toned.

Jim I just bought a Super T and it's about 50% done. I'm going to dismantle it to clean everything. I got an extra engine and trans with the deal so I have a lot to work with. I hope mine turns out to look as good as yours. I'm new to Buggies but since I'm a retired aircraft mechanic, I've got more time than money. Once again Good Job. Im looking foward to the challange. Tom J

Tom, good luck on your build! I've always been an Oil Change and Spark Plugs Mechanic, so everything about this build has been new to me. I just hope everything works when I'm finished. By chance do you have a hardtop for your Super T?

I lucked out when I got the T, however I wasn't lucky enough to get the top. I've been searching the Net to locate a book or builders manual but no luck there either. As soon as the weather breaks I'll be bringing her home and the work will start for sure. As soon as I get her home I'll take and post pictures. I plan to break down both engines and start from scratch. The chasis has been striped derusted and roughly painted, but that too will be redone. Like I said before I sure have my work cut out for me. Thank you for taking an intrest. AS a New Be I'm going to need all the advice I can get.  Tom

Tom, you're in luck! I would be glad to email you a copy of my Kellison Super T Build Manual. Just CLICK on my name, KELLISON JIM above my post and then CLICK on SEND MESSAGE. Send me a message along with your email address and I'll send a PDF file of the manual.

I re-installed Pressure Plate and Disc Plate, hooked up lead from fuel gauge to tank, re-mounted trans-axle mounts. Started to hook up fuel line from tank to engine but decided to wait and put shut-off valve in-line. But unfortunately while putting bolt back in trans-axle to mount to engine, I moved clutch lever at trans-axle too far back and popped it loose at pedal assembly. Is there a way to keep the cable end attached on the hook on the pedal assembly permanently?

Well you don't want to attach it "permanently" since if it breaks you will need to replace it. I have found that two small plastic zip ties applied in a "x" around the cable at the hook, helps hold it in place during assambly.

I learned this when I worked at a VW restoration shop. We used to drill 2 small holes one on either side of the opening to hook the cable into. Then hook your cable onto the arm. Take some mechanics wire and close the hook by threading the wire through the holes and secure the wire by twisting it. The holes have to be JUST big enough to get the wire through. Works GREAT.

brad

Jeff and Brad, thanks for the tips. Now I get to climb head first into the buggy and try to get the cable back on. There seems to be a lot less room under the dash on a T Buggy vs a Manx style buggy. I hope to fire her up this weekend and hopefully I can get some video of it on Youtube.

another suggestion might be to use a bungie cord on the back side to hold tension on the cable and keeping the cable on the hook during assembly. (I like the safety-wire suggestion though!)

Jay

I went to start the buggy over the weekend and it didn't start. At first I thought it might be the battery since it turned over slowly after a short time then stop. I would then take a socket to the pulley and turn it and hear a small click. Then I thought maybe the engine seized up, but it turned out being the starter bushing. Somehow the bushing seized up on the end of the starter. I removed the starter then cut the bushing off the starter and tested the starter. Thank goodness the starter was ok. Also, the bushing was installed flush with the back side of tranny (side toward engine) but when I removed engine it had slid back toward starter. Is it possible I removed too much when I was cleaning the 6 volt tranny to fit the 12volt flywheel? Now my question... What would have caused this? Did I screw up by not lubing the shaft before installing starter into bushing? Any help (as usual) would be great!!!

I've seen clearance jobs where the bushing is just about showing through the bellhoousing and they worked fine. If you are concerend about it coming out you could use some loc-tite sleeve retaining compound. Make sure you lube the bushing and starter shaft, but it shouldn't have seized after one attmept, ussually it's a long term wear thing. Try putting it back together and see how it turn over and maybe get your starter draw checked if it's an old used one. Did someone mushroom or deform the bushing by driving it in harshly or check the starter shaft for burrs or rough spots . Maybe polish it with some fine sand paper or crocus cloth if you have it. Let us know how it goes.

brad

I know its a new starter but....autostick baby! Its the way to go!

$50.00

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Starter-Worldwide_5841674-P_123_R|GRPSTRTAMS_539232902___

Jeffrey P, Are you sure you're not an autostick salesman the way you keep pushing it? "Just kidding." As a matter of fact I've had two customers on my big brown route suggest the same thing over the last week. Both have Things. New starter or not, for $50.00 that might be the route to take.

Brad, you might have a point. When I was prepairing the trans-axle to be cleared out for my 12volt engine, I removed everything that might cause a spark, including the bushing. It's possible I mushroomed it a little bit and when the starter was bolted back in, it might have made it just a tad too tight. As always, thanks!

Jim,
I am not an autostick salesman....but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

I have built 3 buggies and 5 VW based kits in the past few years and it wasn't until my last kit (a Bradley) that I actually went to the autostick. When I did I was shocked at how much heavier duty it was and how much better designed. Then when I found them local for $50 I was sold.

Never again will I install a regular starter in a VW based kit...they are that much better.

I bet you can sell you other one and reduce your cost.

Way to go Jim. Nut and bolt that baby and hit the streets. It's a couple degrees above 0 today and I really want to go drive the buggy, but there's still lots of snow and DIRT. Take a spin for me.

brad

I got the engine running but was having an issue with #3 and #4 side of the engine, but after adjusting the valves and syncing the carbs the issue has been resolved. I had to adjust the shaft between the shifter and the trans-axle as well as adjusting the clutch and got her on the street on Saturday. If I knew I would have gotten that far yesterday I would have went out and got my 30 Day Tags, but I still managed to put 5 miles on the buggy.

This 1776 Type III has got some power, but I don't want do too much with it until I nut and bolt the entire buggy. Tonight I'll take the wheels of and take them to have tubes put in them due to the age of the tires and at that point re-bleed the brakes, adjust e-brake, repaint part of trans-axle where the fuel leaked on it due to me not having the nut on the outlet fitting tight. Hopefully , I'll have her on the road next weekend.

One thing I didn't realize before but do now is that there is not a lot of room in these T-Buggies! If I knew then what I know now, I would have moved the pedal assembly back to the stock position. The build manual calls for it to be moved toward the back about 6-8 inches (and he did), but that takes away precious leg room. I like the bucket seats, but am thinking of converting to a bench like some T-Buckets I've seen in order to scoot my by butt back about 6 inches.

I also need to make a new tailgate due to the cooling on the Type III and do not want to cut on the original one.

Thanks again to everyone at DBA for their help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just posted a short clip of the Super T on the road.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8tAY4ezzW8

Well, I put her back on the jack stands, removed wheels and will start from the front and work my way to the back and re-check every nut and bolt on her. I plan on taking the tires/wheels to a local tire store and see if they can put innertubes in them, if not, I'll get the old credit card out and get some new tires. I trusted the tires for local driving but wouldn't for long distances. I am almost finished making a new tailgate and will have it finished by the weekend.

I got my Ohio Historic Tags for the buggy today and have contacted my Ins. Agent to see what our options are and hopefully have her on the road within the week.

I thought if you get Ohio historic tags , you could not use it as a daily driver. Only car shows, events and parades and occasional driving. I was going to get some for mine and opted out.

historic plates

in michigan its parades,and to and from club or historic activites.
if you dont belong to a club start your own, if a cop asks your always on official "buggy club" business
such as enjoying your buggy

Once the warm weather gets here there's at least 3 car shows/cruise ins etc every week. Great idea Eric, I am Officially the Grand Poobah of the S.W. Buckeye Buggy Buddies. Who wants to join?

Easy Kellison Jim next thing you know you will have a big rack of ribs on the roof and blisters on your feet LOL. have fun crusing !!!                        Ken.............

Yabba Dabba Doo!

I will  join if u move it a couple hours east!

im a couple hours north of u, between flint and saginaw then go 30 minutes east. were starting our
own. we have 6 members already. in michigan if you can find one you can register an original year
plate also.

I have '70 plates on mine, but had to purchase (and have in the buggy) the historical plates.

From the Ohio DMV -
As used in this section, "historical motor vehicle" means any motor vehicle that is more than twenty-five years old and that is owned solely as a collector's item and for participation in club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, and similar uses, but in no event is used for general transportation.

A vehicle registered under this section may display historical vehicle license plates issued by the registrar of motor vehicles or model year license plates procured by the applicant.

And -I would gladly join your new club, Just not sure if I can afford the dues!!!!!!

I finished checking all nuts and bolts on the front half of the buggy tonight and will start on the rear tomorrow. I was wanting to put inner tubes in the tires so that I could at least drive locally, but am unable to locate tubes to fit my old G60-14 and J60-14 tires. It's not so much the tube as it is the valve stem being located in the center of the wheel. I checked local tire stores as well as Jegs, Summit and Coker Tire,  but wiyjout any luck. I decided to go with 245/60-14's and 225/60-14's BF Goodrich TA Radials w/ Raised letters. I think they'll look great with my Torque Thrust!

tractor implement tubes, or re drill your rims...

I tried Tractor Supply, but with no luck and I really don't want to drill a 2nd hole in the rim, so I'll go with new tires. In the long run I would need them anyway.

Good move Jim, now you can feel at ease about driving, some times its hard to part with the old tires but it is alot better than the old tires coming apart and messing up that nice buggy of yours, enjoy your cruising in the kellison, Ken.............

I took a break from nut and bolting the buggy and finished the new tailgate. I thought it turned out pretty nice. Will continue checking the nuts and bolts on the rear tomorrow.

wear did you get the rims on your buggy they look great i also have a kellison though it is a pickup i would like to get my hands on some rims like that